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Ferryhill Parish Church
Letters from Jerusalem

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Rev Clarence Musgrave  
and his wife Joan  
were our mission partners. 
They  worked at 
St Andrews Church of Scotland Church 
in Jerusalem before they retired in the summer of 2006.

Sunbula, the shop in St Andrew's Hospice that promotes and sells handcrafts made by Palestinians is now on the web: www.sunbula.org

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Other Letters:
No 25-30
No 31-36
No 37-41
No 42-48
No 49-60
No 61-69
No 70-79
No 80-89
No 90-100
No 101-109
No 110-119
No 120-129
No 130-139
No 140-149
No 150-159
No 160-169
No 170-179
No 180-189
No 190-199
No 200-209
No 210-219
No 220-229
No 230-239
No 240-249
No 250-259

No 260-270

Partnership in Conflict

Circular Letter No 129

7th June 2003


Monday 2nd June. Road maps, summit meetings, Settlements, dominate the news.

Mr. Sharon is quoted as saying that he will uproot "illegal" outposts. It is an interesting use of the word "illegal", and exemplifies part of the problem - who defines what is "legal" and what is "illegal"? And if one speaks loudly and often about "illegal" outposts, will it perhaps contribute to a feeling that there are such things as "legal" outposts? Below are two Jewish people giving their points of view. Palestinians have entirely different perspectives - for them all Settlements are illegal.

South of Bethlehem is a whole raft of Settlements, called the Gush Etzion bloc. Today there are short interviews with 3 people living in that area. One, the widow of a doctor killed in a shooting attack, speaks of the possibility of the evacuation of her Settlement : "If, heaven forbid this should happen, I imagine the feeling would be like the one at Shmuel's (her husband) funeral: a painful silence of a world destroyed, quiet that cries out. The pain would be enormous. The settlements here are not just an ideological statement. They are a lifelong project, a personal and communal home to us all."

Aviad Mahlev has lived in his Settlement for a year. He is unwilling to consider any compromise: "The demand for us to compromise is inappropriate. In my view, the compromise is that they (the Palestinians) will continue to live here as they did prior to 1987 (when the first Intifada erupted). If there are any occupiers in this land it is the Palestinians who are sitting in a land that does not belong to them. I don't intend to expel them, but am determined that they won't expel me either."

It is in this area that the family of one of our members has its farm, which is under threat from the expansion of Settlements.

Thursday 5th June. The morning after the day before.

The two Summits have come and gone, and everyone is wondering exactly what has been achieved, and where we are going now. If I had a crystal ball, I would give you the benefit of my insights into the future. Not having anything remotely like that at all, all I can do is give you a few pickings from what is being said, and what is happening.

In an Analysis article on Wednesday, prior to the Aqaba Summit, there is the Headline "It's now terror versus settlements." '…Sharon, who was swept up by the winds of American diplomatic activity in the last two weeks, was forced to accept the equation between terror and settlements, and it will be at the centre of his speech today…' The very real personal difficulty for Mr. Sharon to come to accept this, and implement some sort of withdrawal from Settlements, lies in the fact that he has been a prime architect in the construction of Settlements over the past 20 years. Thursday's paper carries an article headed "What Sharon sowed, now he reaps." The article mentions two of Mr.. Sharon's actions in connection with Settlements over the period since the Massacres in Beirut in 1982. There was reaction to a Peace Plan put forward by Mr. Reagan, when more and more Settlements were built under the prompting of Mr. Sharon.. As Infrastructure Minister in the Government of Mr. Netanyahu, Mr. Sharon urged on the settlers, and on return from the Wye River summit, he called on the settlers to grab every hilltop as outposts, to prevent any further withdrawals from the territories.

It is this sort of track record which causes scepticism among people now, be they Israelis or Palestinians. It is very much a case of wait and see what will happen.

Side by side on the front page of Thursday's Ha'aretz are an article and an advertisement.

The article is headed "Only 20,000 answer settlers' battle cry." It reports that around 20,000 settlers and their supporters rallied last night in Jerusalem's Zion Square to protest against the deal struck at the Aqaba summit between Israel and the Palestinians. '…Speaking at the rally - held in the same venue where Yitzhak Rabin was infamously compared to a Nazi SS general a month before he was assassinated - was National Religious Party Minister Effi Eitam and MKs Zvi Hendel and Uri Ariel. They earlier sent a letter to Sharon indicating that the moment the governments starts implementing the road map and evacuating outposts, they will quit the ruling coalition.' (On an inside page is a report "Anti-Sharon violence feared." There is a great deal of tension within the Jewish community.)

The Advertisement is for an Israeli and Palestinian Human Chain for Peace, on Saturday June 14th at 1700 hours, at the Jaffa Gate of the Old City of Jerusalem. It reads 'A window of opportunity has opened. This is the chance that must not be missed. Israelis and Palestinians are coming together to demand immediate implementation of the promise to put an end to occupation, and bring peace for the peoples of this region.

The Minister of Tourism, Mr. Benny Elon, inaugurated a new Headquarters for a Jewish right-wing organisation called Moledet. This building is in East Jerusalem, and the photo of the opening shows a large poster proclaiming "Jordan is Palestine." With the road map threatening Jerusalem and Palestinian Authority institutions about to reopen, it is important to establish a Jewish hold in every corner of Jerusalem, according to Mr. Elon.

One of the elements in the Road Map is the cessation on the part of the Palestinians of incitement against Israel and Jewish people. How does one classify such a poster in the heart of Arab Jerusalem?

Tensions on the Jewish side are matched by tensions on the Palestinian side. There was an interesting comment on a News programme a couple of evenings ago, about the huge social programmes of Hamas. Hamas has the support of a very large section of the population, and when a spokesman says "Suddenly, the suffering of the Jews is the important thing; suddenly from victims we've become the aggressors", one has to take note, as this will be a widely held view among ordinary Palestinians. "Freeing prisoners and issuing work permits are very nice and important, but what kind of Palestinian state are we talking about, how big is it, and what are its borders" mused an aide to Mr. Arafat.

A Hamas spokesman said that his organisation is ready to cease attacks on Israeli civilians, but the armed fight against settlers and solders will not stop 'because the armed struggle for the right of return and the land conquered in 1948 will never end." It will be hard to carry Palestinian public opinion along with a peace process, if a major component of it is not the dismantling of settlements and the cessation of the violence that settlers practice against Palestinians who go out to work their farms and tend their olive trees.

Normal service is continued - not even resumed. At the Bethlehem check point on Thursday afternoon, I had to wait in a queue of 5 cars waiting while a truck was examined - average time per car was 2 minutes. The truck and one of the cars were refused entry. The two vehicles immediately in front of me were UN and Consular Corps - so they took about 15 seconds each. It gives some idea of the length of time for the other vehicles. Going in, the Border Police were operating two-way traffic. Coming to one of the major cross roads in Bethlehem, near the Bethlehem Bible College, there was a certain apprehension in the air - kids on the street trying to communicate that there either was some shooting up ahead, or that there were armed people. When I reached the cross roads, the traffic moving north had been stopped about 75 metres from the cross roads, the traffic moving south was similarly stopped, but in the middle of it, about 50 metres from the cross roads, was an Armoured Personnel Carrier, and 10 - 15 Palestinian men sitting on the roadside with their hands behind their heads. Crossing over, I was able to go up the hill to see the person I had come to meet. Half an hour later, when coming back, there was not a sign of blocked traffic, nor of the APC. I had three short conversations, and sadly they were all the same. No change, the summits all a charade, and no hope.

In one of them, the person said that he had been going to go to Manger Square area the day before to do some shopping, but had heard on TV that there were soldiers in the area, and that they had even gone into the Church of the Nativity searching for someone. He had stayed at home. This was the day of the Summit - and he eloquently shrugged his shoulders.

Back at the check point leaving Bethlehem - 4 cars in front of me, with an articulated truck being examined. The truck was not allowed to leave Bethlehem, and so had to try to turn. As it left the check point, the first car in our line moved forward - only to find that the soldiers had waved for a car from the other direction to come, and he had to reverse a bit and wait, and wait. There was now only one-way traffic, and a soldier was sitting down writing details of cars allowed to go into Jerusalem. It was about 15 minutes to get through this time - and I was not even stopped, so it gives some idea of the time that it was taking to check each car.

A comment from a Jewish friend about the Summit. Mr. Sharon has spent all his life on one mission - to build Greater Israel. In order to ensure that he gets the $7 billion that he needs in Loan Guarantees from the US, what do you expect him to say at Aqaba?

Also quoted by the same friend from (Israeli) Army Radio - "In a meeting of senior IDF officers convened by (Minister of Defence and former Chief of Staff of the Army) Mofaz on Thursday it was decided not to ease restrictions on the Palestinians for now, despite the statements made by Sharon Wednesday in Aqaba. Army Radio quoted security officials as saying that the easing of restrictions would begin when the Palestinians begin acting to foil terror attacks."

On a different plane altogether, your generosity has enabled me this week to respond to two requests for help.

The one was for a family in the Bethlehem area where a man needed chemo-therapy for cancer treatment. Cost, even after a major reduction by the hospital in Israel is about NIS 1,000 per week. To give them an opportunity to start the treament and to find additional sources of income, I was able to pay for 1 month's treatment.

The second was a request for help on behalf of CheckPoint Watch - the organisation of Jewish women who go to observe how the Israeli soldiers are treating Palestinians at checkpoints. They are travelling quite long distances into the West Bank, and into areas where cars with yellow number plates (Israeli cars) are associated with Settlers. So they do not feel it is wise to travel in their own cars - instead they use the Palestinian taxis. This is costing up to NIS 1,500 per week, and again I was able to offer support for about a month, so that they can keep on with their work, and find alternative sources of income. Thanks for your support.

Friday morning : setting off for Idna, to meet the Co-operative women and their English teacher. One of them phoned the other afternoon, just to practice using her English! Idna doing well - only trouble is finding markets for their produce. They have a new range of table mats and coasters. I will try to get a photograph of them in an e-mail, and perhaps it will generate some business.

Friday afternoon : was phone by a Reporter from the Sunday Post and asked for a comment on the Church's point of view about the Road Map! Wonder what he will make of it all.

Friday evening : supper with Board and Staff of St George's College. Canon Suheil had been in Ramallah on Thursday - trapped there for some time till he persuaded the Israeli army to let him out and get back to Jerusalem - the second time in a week that Ramallah had been closed down, with no traffic in or out.


From a rather hot Jerusalem - greetings. God bless.

Joan and Clarence

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Circular Letter No 128

1st June 2003

Greetings once again from Jerusalem - where we are slowly getting things together again, having arrived back safely on Saturday 31st May, reaching the Guest House and our apartment at 0700 hours.


When we last wrote, we were getting ready for our trip to Scotland, and hoping that all would go well with the travel arrangements. It did, all three folk from Bethlehem area got to Scotland, they all made their own contributions to the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland, and Nuha is back in Bethlehem while Helen and Doris continue to visit supporters of Al Shurooq School in different parts of England. They will be back on June 12th.

A few words about our departure. I picked up Helen and Doris at Doris' home in Beit Jala, which is outside the checkpoint, at 0315 hours. Back in Jerusalem we collected Joan and headed for the airport. In all the times that I have gone to the airport, I have never yet been asked to pull my vehicle over to the side of the road - this time I was. We pulled over, and our passports had to be produced. Joan's and mine were swiftly returned, while Doris and Helen were asked to remove their luggage from the car. Doris was taken into a room in a building adjacent to the checkpoint, where she was questioned and her luggage inspected. She requested that Helen be not asked to undergo the same checking, and so a Supervisor was called. He arrived, inspected our papers, and allowed us to proceed. We spent about 13 minutes in this procedure. At the airport terminal, I left all the luggage and the women, while I went to park the car. Back at the Terminal, we met Nuha who had travelled independently to the airport and we joined the line for security clearance about 0515 hours. For some time now we have not encountered the sort of aggressive questioning that often was experienced by people leaving the country, nor were we questioned this time. Our luggage all went through the x-ray machines, and then each item of luggage was unpacked into a plastic storage box. When it has been ascertained that all was well, it was repacked, and each one of us in turn was taken for a body-scan. Joan and I were finished first, and we went to check-in. We were told by a security person that if we did check in she would have to escort us to the stairs to go to Passport Control and we could not wait for Helen and Doris. So, we waited, and a few minutes later we all checked in together. Standing beside us was a security person, and this prompted at least one of those waiting in another line for the same flight to ask a question about us. We were all then escorted to the stairs, and went up to Passport Control. That was safely negotiated, and by 0630 we were all in the Departure Lounge. All the Security Staff had been polite and non-threatening - which had not always been the case. At 0805 hours the plane took off, and I relaxed!

So, all in all it was a quick check-in, and as Helen, Doris and Nuha all had their Travel Permits from the Israeli Army, there was no hassle. However, for the first time, Joan and I were checked at the entrance to the airport, and escorted within the airport. One can only surmise it was the fact that we were travelling with Palestinians that made the difference.

The General Assembly took place - some parts of more interest than others. From our point of view, it was good that Nuha and Helen were able to speak to the Assembly, and they got a sympathetic hearing. They both also participated in various meetings while in Edinburgh, and got invitations to attend several of the social events associated with the Assembly. I suppose the one thing that I hope will lead to some developments here in Jerusalem was the Report on the Theology of Land and Covenant. This was the Report of a Study Group set up by the Assembly of 2001. If anyone would like a copy, please let me know and I can send it by e-mail. The Assembly did endorse a request that it be translated into Hebrew and Arabic for distribution here in Israel and Palestine, and also supported the idea of a conference later in the year in Jerusalem, if ways can be found to arrange and finance it. So, we hope something will come of that.

hile at home, we had the sad news of the death of Clarence's step-mother Millie. She had had to leave her house at the end of 2002 and move into a Nursing Home. She seemed to have made a positive adjustment to her new environment, and Joan and I had planned to visit her after the end of the Assembly. However, she had a fall, and while in the Recovery Room of the hospital following an operation on her leg she suffered a heart attack, and never regained consciousness. Joan and I, along with our son Peter, went to Ireland for her funeral. This was a sad time, but it gave us a chance to meet Millie's family, and also to see Clarence's elder brother (who lives in Bangor) and sister (who came from Vancouver Island). Then it was back to Edinburgh, and clear up to come back here.

It is good to be back, and meet the friends with whom we have shared the past couple of years. They are gracious enough to say that they are glad we are back!

While there is all the uncertainty about the political developments, the story of our church service this morning illustrates the importance of having our church community here.

Maria and Victoria are two young Jewish women who came to see me over a year ago, saying that they were thinking of becoming Christians. For a long time, nothing else happened, but in the past while they have started coming more often, and are slowly finding their way in their search for answers to their deeper questions about life and faith. I have no idea if they will ever formally become Christians - in a sense I feel that that is secondary. The main thing is that they are able to find room to ask their questions, and meet a community (albeit a small one) which gives them acceptance.

Asaf is a young Jewish man who has been attending worship for 18 months. He shared his particular story with the Congregational Discussion Group some time ago, and since then has been also finding space to be accepted and develop his thinking. Interestingly this morning, he told of being able to make some sort of confessions about things in his early life, and his hope of finding forgiveness. Where he will end up in his "faith-quest" is anyone's guess, but again, it is good that folk here have welcomed him, accepted him, and allowed him to be himself. What is good is that he has made contact with some other young folk in the congregation who live and work in East Jerusalem - and they have taken him to meet some of their friends there. He has learned that life is just the same there as in West Jerusalem - there are families, and children, and stores and people go out for meals --- and so on. It is quite extraordinary that people have to learn such rudimentary things about each other.

The story of the Guest House is also important - as a place where folk can find a welcome and a night's rest. One such person was a young Jewish woman from the US who spent a night here last month. She had a chat and a meal with us, before leaving the next morning about 0500 hours to go to Nablus. One of the messages that we found on our Phone Answering Machine was from her - calling up from Rafah, in the Gaza Strip where she is a "human shield" (a young American Jewish lass trying to shield the Palestinians) - to say that she had heard of a bomb in Jerusalem and wondered if Joan and I were safe. How good that there is a Guest House making its contribution to such a situation and a process.

The chance to be part of such a community, and such a process, is a great privilege - and we get paid for it! Any Church of Scotland minister wanting a job?

The struggle within the different communities of Israel and Palestine continues. Today's paper carries the same sort of stories that it has carried for the past 2 years - "Stop the Violence" - "End the Occupation". While people have their hopes for the summit meetings with Mr Bush, expectations are not high. More later.

If you are looking for a book to read, try The Dignity of Difference, by Jonathan Sacks, ISBN 0 8264 6850 0. Rabbi Sacks is the Chief Rabbi in the UK. We are hopefully going to study it in the Congregation Discussion Group.


Bye for now. God bless, and love from us both

Joan and Clarence

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Circular Letter No 127
13th May 2003

Someone had a wonderful idea - to nominate Helen Shehadeh as a Commissioner to the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland, as one of the Commissioners from the Presbytery of Jerusalem. It will turn out to have been a wonderful idea as and when she appears in Edinburgh!

Steps to be taken were :
  1. Have valid travel document from Palestinian Authority - done without too much trouble.
  2. Obtain Visa from UK Government to permit her to enter UK - done without too much trouble.
  3. Arrange with Church of Scotland for a support person for Helen to be included in the invitation, and in the expenses! - done without too much trouble, with the assistance of various people in the administration of the CofS.
  4. Arrange flights - not difficult if you have the cash. Done.
  5. Apply for permission for people from the West Bank to travel to Ben Gurion Airport in Israel, and take a flight from there to UK. The day that the application was lodged for this permission, Joan came back from a meeting with the cheerful news that the Military authorities were not allowing any Palestinians to travel through the Airport. Application papers handed in about 1st May for flight on 14th May.
  6. A General Strike is called and offices of Ministries are closed. Nevertheless help was forthcoming from Ministry of Religious Affairs. Phone calls regularly in week leading up to May 10th - interrupted by Independence Day here. Finally told that a decision might be available on Monday 12th.
  7. A phone call from Ministry of Religious Affairs on morning of 12th confirms that Permits have been granted, so I get ready to go to collect them - 22 kms from town at the Military Administration office. A further phone call advises that Permits have to be collected on 13th!
  8. Tuesday 13th - we are due to fly in less than 24 hours - I arrive at the Military Administration Office at 0945 hours. Despite permission having come through from the Main Office at Beit El, no-one of the front windows of the office at Gush Etzion knows about the matter. Not at all surprising - it is issuing work permits etc. However, at 1235 hours I leave with the permits. They are valid from 0200 hours to 0800 hours on 14th May - the day of the flight. I had thought it would be helpful to have the people spend the night in Jerusalem so that we would all get a bit of a rest etc. No such luck. So, we will pick them up about 0330 hours, and head for the airport. Plane due to fly at 0800 hours - so that should give plenty of time for security checks etc. However, there is also the threat of an all-out strike at the Airport - at present there has been a go-slow by baggage handlers - so it may be a case of "thus far and no further". Assuming that everything works as planned, Helen and co will be in Edinburgh 24 hours from now.
  9. All this is possible for me - with contacts etc. How difficult it must be for those who do not have such opportunities to talk with people.

So, for the moment, bye from Jerusalem. We hope to be back here on June 1st, having been to the General Assembly, to Ireland to see Clarence's step-mother and our families there, and taking a bit of time off in Edinburgh. Stay well. God bless.

Edinburgh e-mail address is cwm_edinburgh@btopenworld.com


Joan and Clarence

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Circular Letter No 126
10th May 2003



Some of the most horrendous injuries inflicted by a suicide bomb are caused by the things such as nails or ball-bearings that are packed into the bomb. When it is detonated, they then cause injuries over a wide area. Rightly, this sort of "weapon" has been condemned.

There was an interesting ruling by the Israeli Supreme Court, reported in Ha'aretz on April 28th, headed "International Law does not ban use of flechettes." 'The Supreme Court ruled yesterday that international law does not bar the IDF from using flechette shells. According to the court, an international treaty restricting the use of conventional weapons, which Israel ratified in 1995, does not ban flechette use. These shells, which are generally fired from tanks, explode in the air releasing thousands of metal darts 3.77 mm in length, which disperse in a conical arc 300 metres long and about 90 metres wide. …On one occasion a flechette shell, used in response to shots fired at an IDF outpost near the Gaza Strip settlement of Netzarim, landed near a Bedouin tent, killing three women. On a separate occasion three youths were killed when a flechette shell was fired at suspect terrorists thought to be on their way to carry out an attack. Attorney Yochi Gensin, representing the IDF claimed that according to IDF Commanders in the Gaza Strip, the use of flechette shells is necessary, and has no real substitute.'


One hears many voices commenting on the events that take place here and the way they are reported in the various news channels. Much air-time has been spent on the identity of the person who was the most recent suicide bomber in Tel Aviv - the person with a British passport. Generally speaking, the view from the Jewish people with whom we have spoken supports the involvement of the British police in the investigation, and is pleased with the level of co-operation. There is a different point of view from others. They remark on the way that the young Peace Activist was killed in Gaza, the young British Peace Activist was shot in Gaza, and the Journalist/Photographer was killed in Gaza - and the fact that the investigations into these killings are being carried out by the Israeli army, whose members were responsible in the first place for the killings. If deaths on one side can be investigated by outside police forces, why not deaths on the other side also? 'Tom Hurndall, a young Briton active in the International Solidarity Movement, was shot in the head by the Israeli Army when he tried to get a 5-year old girl out of the line of fire in Rafah. As of May 1st, he was still in intensive care, in a coma, in a hospital in Beer Sheva. The Israeli Army had refused to meet his family. The family was told that the Israeli army had begun an investigation of the incident. Ha'aretz has been told by the Israeli army that the military authorities will meet with the Hurndall family and that "upon the completion of the investigations and the formulation of conclusions, we will present them to the relevant people."' (Ha'aretz Week's End, May 2)


When is a mobile home (or caravan) not a mobile home? I was having a conversation with a Jewish person during the week, and we were talking about the effects of the proposed Austerity Measures of the Israeli Government - reductions in Social Security type payments, redundancies in the Civil Service etc. He was speaking of the effects on these measures on himself and his family. It was interesting listening to him describe the situation of one of his family, currently unemployed due to the employing firm having gone out of business, living with spouse and baby in a "mobile home" supplied by the Government. I know that the person speaking to me lives in a Settlement, and I suspect that the "mobile home" he was speaking about was in fact a caravan placed as part of the expansion of the Settlement. For him, this demonstrated the caring face of Government while making a positive contribution to the claiming of the Land for the Jewish people. For others to whom I have listened this past week, both Jewish and Palestinian, the mobile home is a sort of cancer eating away both at the land, and at the heart of the Jewish people. Yet, it all sounded so benign and so considerate in the original conversation.


We have been able to listen to two speakers this week, participating in a week-long programme organised by Sabeel, the Palestinian Liberation Theology Centre.

The first was by Jeff Halper of the Israel Committee against House Demolitions. He is an American Jewish person who is now a citizen of Israel, and is an outspoken critic of the policies of the Government of Israel about the Settlements, the Wall and the use of the policy of demolishing houses of the families of those suspected to have been involved in acts against Israeli citizens. He was speaking about the Road Map, and illustrated his talk with a single transparency. It was a map of Israel and the West Bank, setting out the details which he describes as the Matrix of Control (control of the Palestinians by the Israelis.) He made a coherent presentation of the long-term plans behind the Settlements - to carve up the West Bank and prevent there being a viable Palestinian State; of the long-term plans behind the road network constructed on the West Bank - to keep control of the country in Israeli hands; of the long-term control over natural resources and utilities such as the electricity grid - which gives the Israeli government the power to turn off the lights, and shut down the water supply. It would be well worth looking up his map on his website : www.icahd.org It was a thoroughly depressing evening, probably because in the experience of all those present who live here, it was so accurate and fitted in with our own observations.

The second was by Jonathan Kuttab, a Palestinian lawyer who is on the Board of Sabeel, a devout Christian. He too spoke of the evils of the present situation, but stressed that as Christians we were not bound by the same assumptions as other participants in the drama here. We know that Christ has won the victory on the Cross, and we are engaged in mopping up operations. Some smiled wryly, and wished that they had lived in a more congenial time! He, like Halper, accepted the Road Map as the only document on the table at present, but also stressed that people like Sabeel and its supporters have to make sure that their voices are heard, and that attention is kept focussed on the big problems - the flouting of UN Resolution 242, Collective Punishment, destruction of houses, etc. Do not let the general public lose sight of these topics.


On this front, I was greatly heartened by one friend who receives these letters who had forwarded part of Letter 124 to his MP, dealing with the Wall (Letter 124). He had had a reply which included the following : "Thanks for this. The whole issue of the Wall has been debated in Parliament and was raised by, amongst others, Ming Campbell for the LibDems. The PM and Foreign Secretary have both made clear that they - like us - oppose the Wall and are putting pressure on to see if it can be stopped." (See later in the Letter following our visit to Jayyus on 10th May)

Perhaps a look at the ICAHD website, a perusal of the map, and a letter to the Israeli Embassy in your country might be one way of letting people know that their actions are being watched, and opposed.


Independence Day. As you quickly learn here, a "day" starts one evening, and ends the next. So the celebrations for Independence Day for Israel started on Tuesday night, and have only just finished. There were two parties close to us, with bands or discos that went on most of the night. One person's party is another person's misery when you cannot get to sleep! But at a more profound level, one person's Independence Day may well be a completely different sort of day for other people. So, crossing over from West to East Jerusalem, one crosses over from a city that is celebrating and on holiday, to a city where it is very much business as usual.

Each Independence Day there is a Reception hosted by the President of Israel for members of the Diplomatic Corps and Heads of Churches and Christian Communities. The Minister of St Andrew's is on the Invitation List. So, about 1700 hours, I reported to the President's Residence and joined a few hundred other people queuing up to greet the President. When he had welcomed all his guests, it was time for speeches - one by the Foreign Minister and one by the President. The speeches were little different from those given at the Reception for the Heads of Churches at the New Year. "Israel has always extended the hand of peace, but the Palestinians have never reciprocated. So there has had to be constant vigilance and struggle. Israel calls on all the nations of the world to join with it in combating Terrorism. In the case of Israel, this terrorism comes from the Palestinians on the West Bank, and from people on the northern borders." It is always impressive to see and hear the conviction with which leaders of the Government of Israel speak of their readiness to make peace - without mentioning the terms upon which they would conclude 'peace'.


Coming home, there were two things to give a different perspective. The first was the news report of the shooting in the head of an 18-month old baby boy in Gaza. The second was a book review in the Independence Day Supplement to Ha'aretz. The English title of the book is "Wars don't just happen" by Motti Golani. "Golani's basic assumption, which - it should be emphasised here - is harshly critical, is that Israeli society has adopted, with almost no questions asked, the 'culture of power' and the being that the relationship between Israel and its neighbours must be based almost exclusively on military might. …The most prominent and most controversial argument that Golani presents seems to be that 'peace has not always headed Israel's list of priorities, and war has not always headed its neighbours' list of priorities. …Israel is still the only country in the world where security problems constitute so central a component in its very essence. … There is no other democracy on earth where the army has such a major role and exerts such critical influence on policy-making." It is a very different voice from that of the President and the Foreign Minister, and would call into question the assertions made this afternoon at the Reception that Israel has always wanted peace.


Saturday afternoon. Last week Joan was critical of the letter in that there was little of hope in it. Not that there is much change in the situation, but today we got a chance to do what I like doing - giving away other people's money! After the letter about Jayyus, we got a donation from a church in Scotland for the woman whose story we told in letter No 124. So today we went to see her, and to take here some money. As you can imagine, this is delicate, and so we had a friend with us who was able to converse in her own language and hand over the money. "B" is 35, with a face of a woman who has seen much more than a 35-year old would in Scotland. She was very gracious in welcoming us to her home. When work is available in a "sewing factory" in the village which makes clothes up for finishing in Israel, she can earn $115 a month for 6 days, 8 hours a day. In this she is little different from many people in a third world country, but one of the major differences for her is that she can look out from her window and see Tel Aviv - most definitely a first world city. To our Scottish donors, many thanks.

We also went to the Kindergarten, which has 4 classes, in a purpose built school financed some years ago by a grant from Canada, from Save the Children and with money raised from the local community. Cost per child is NIS 35 per month - about $8. It does not sound much but when put beside the wage of $115 per month, it is quite a significant cost. So, perhaps 40 or so children had to be asked to stay at home, as their family could not pay the rent. Donations, including one from the Royal Memorial Chapel at Sandhurst, enabled us to give over $1,000 to help get some children back to kindergarten.

Your support is good news. The dedication of families and teachers in Jayyus is good news - the situation is most definitely not good news. Since we were last in Jayyus, the metal poles for the exclusion fence have gone up. When we visit next, the whole fence will be in place.

Mr Powell is visiting us this weekend - so of course there has to be an assassination to provoke a response, and then the Israeli government will be able to once again say to the Americans that the violence from the Palestinians has not ended.


Next week Joan and I travel to Edinburgh - assuming that there is no strike at the airport. We will have with us Helen Shehadeh, Doris Rabba and Nuha Khoury, all from the Bethlehem area - if they get travel permits allowing them even to get to the airport. You might get a short note before we go, otherwise, you will be spared for the next few weeks. We are due back at the end of May.

Stay well. God bless.

Joan and Clarence.
 

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Circular Letter No 125
3rd May 2003

Tuesday 29th April. Having been given some teddy bears with the request to find homes for them, Joan and I went out to the 4 Homes of Mercy at Bethany this afternoon. We picked up the person who was to be our guide at the New Gate of the Old City, and I was a bit flabbergasted when told to head for the Jericho Road and Ma'ale Adumim. The reason for my surprise can be found in the Guide Books. "Bethany - a small town just over the Mount of Olives, Bethany is only 5kms from Jerusalem" (The AA Explorer Guide to Israel, p 209) So, off we went, through the new tunnel under the Mount of Olives, and down the main road. On the right on the first hill tops are the buildings of the village of Bethany, but to get to it, you have to keep going down the road a couple of kilometres, and then take the new road up to the illegal Israeli settlement of Ma'ale Adumim. The reason for this circuitous route, taking 10 or 11 kms, is that the direct road has been blocked by the Israeli army and there is no direct vehicular access to Bethany apart from the long way round. Should Jesus want to make his way into the City of Jerusalem now, he would have problems if he started out from Bethany.

The illegal settlement does a good job - it takes up a large tract of Palestinian land, and effectively barricades Bethany in from the East. Just in case anyone might think that anybody can drive from Bethany to Ma'ale Adumim and then into Jerusalem, there is a check point on the road, where the goats are weeded out from the sheep. Only one sort gets to go through the check point.

The 4 Homes of Mercy was founded in 1940 and prior to 1948 was catering for people from Jordan and Syria as well as from Palestine. It provides full time nursing care for people with multiple physical and mental handicaps, with approx 90 beds. There are 4 groups - adult females and males, disabled young people who have some mobility and some ability to contribute to their own care, and children many of whom are quadriplegic as well as mentally handicapped. The experience of walking round the wards and seeing the patients, the staff and the facilities is little different from any hospital that we have visited before. The walls were brightly decorated, the rooms large and clean, - but the beds and cots for patients could do with a bit of modernising.

The Medical Director whom we met had the interesting name of Dr Arafat! He had studied in Moscow for his general medicine, his specialty in orthopedics, and then a Ph.D. He too lives in Ramallah, and travels to his work every day. Ramallah is almost visible from the Homes, and in normal times the journey would take perhaps 20 - 30 minutes. Today, the doctor took 2½ hours to reach work. Every day he has to pass through the check point at Kalandia, then a second one on a road that leads to the Jerusalem-Jericho road. Depending on circumstances, there may be a third one also. (This morning, I set out to go to Bethlehem, but when I got to the check point and saw the line of cars and trucks waiting with no sign of soldiers doing any checking, I gave up and came home.) He has to take a minimum of two taxis to make the journey, as taxis from inside Ramallah are not allowed to work outside the town. Despite it all, he was amazingly cheerful, and obviously is committed to his work.

How good it would be if he had the same facilities to do his work as a person in a similar capacity will have in Israel. How good it would be if he were able to get to work and get home in a rather less stressful way.

Friday 2nd May.

We are in the throes of a General Strike, which has closed down government offices, post office services, banks, airport, schools etc. The ostensible reason is over the proposed Austerity Plan of the Government, led by the Finance Minister Mr Netanyahu, to try to reduce the Budget deficit. Key parts of it include reducing levels of social security payments - e.g. children's allowances, - while also reducing the number of government employees, such as teachers. The news today is that there will be a partial easing of the strike, and that the airport will re-open and banks will start functioning again. However, the basic problem is still there - how to fund the military operations against the Palestinians, and the building of roads on the West Bank, and the costs of the Settlement programme, while at the same time having to contend with the global economic slowdown. One of the headlines in the financial section of the paper on Monday 28th April announced that in July the Israeli Government would begin selling bonds guaranteed by the US Government. "Israel is entitled to raise up to $9 billion in American-backed debt, at a pace of $3 billion per year." Who needs to change course when there is that sort of support from the US? Certainly the US seems to be giving two conflicting signals. On the one hand - keep going on your economic course and we will bail you out. On the other hand - pull back to pre-September 2000 lines, cease Settlement expansion etc. Given the choice, which voice would you listen to?

"One swallow does not make a summer" - sorry for the pun, when you read that the Soda Club factory (making drinks) is moving its production factory from Ma'ale Adumim, the Settlement within the Occupied Territories, to Ashkelon. It is doing this to avoid duties that the EU says will have to be imposed on goods produced by Israel within the West Bank. The EU does not recognise the West Bank as part of Israel, and therefore companies operating there cannot claim tax breaks available to companies operating in Israel proper.

Settlements are an enormous factor in any discussion of what is happening here. So, it was interesting to note early in the week the remark of the Minister of Defence, none other than the retired Chief of Staff of the Defence Forces, in which he said that "All of the illegal outposts will be evacuated." According to defence officials, there are 70 outposts, only some of which are illegal. Early in the week there were reports of 2 Settlement outposts having been dismantled. Neither seemed to have been occupied for some time. A different sort of headline is in Friday's paper ::Some illegal outposts get reprieve after settlers buy disputed land." It is said that in several instances, Jewish people have been able to buy land from Palestinians, in order to establish settlements. "In some cases, (it is reported) the sellers were flown overseas at the settlers' expense, some of them to South America, allegedly for fear of being harmed by Palestinian Authority agents. Settler sources said the difficult economic situation of most Palestinians makes it easier to buy their land now." It all reminds me of the saying that there are many ways to skin a cat.

Members of the Yesha Council of Jewish Settlers in Judaea, Samaria and Gaza produced their own solution to the situation in the West Bank on Tuesday. There will be Jewish Cantons, and Arab Cantons. There will be no Palestinian State, no uprooting of Settlements, and the Israeli Army will have freedom of operation anywhere on the West Bank. The Arabs will be free to run their own affairs, under Israeli sovereignty.

In Friday's paper (Page 2) , a report is given of a visit to the US undertaken by the Tourism Minister, Mr Benny Elon. He will try to persuade members of Congress that a Palestinian State in the spirit of President Bush's vision will only feed terrorism, and that Jordan is Palestine. His plan is based on naturalising Palestinians in Jordan, dismantling the Palestinian Authority, and applying Israeli sovereignty from the Jordan river to the Mediterranean Sea. He has close ties with fundamentalist and evangelical Christians and through them has been exerting pressure on congressmen and officials to persuade Bush's administration to drop the idea of a Palestinian State.

This week saw the new Prime Minister in Palestine. It also saw a suicide bomber in Tel Aviv within hours of the Government being sworn in by President Arafat in Ramallah. What changes? The stock response from the Israeli Government spokesman was that this was evidence of the failure of the Palestinian Government to take action against terrorism, despite the fact that the Government had been in office barely a few hours. An equally stock response among many Palestinians was that this was the Israeli government once again orchestrating a suicide bombing at a time when it would do maximum political damage to the Palestinians and allow Israel to wriggle out of potential pressure. Friday's paper carried as its secondary headline "16 Palestinians killed in Gaza, West Bank," and tells of the operation in Gaza in which 13 people were killed, including a 2 year old boy, two 13 year old boys, and a 67 year old man. What sort of response does one expect to be made by those most affected by this attack? Give up their arms? Vengeance? One has lost count of the times that such actions have been carried out by the Israeli army when "peace" initiatives have been launched. What price now the Road Map of the US? It is hard to find an ordinary person here, Jewish or Palestinian, who thinks that it has any chance at all.

The following is a paragraph from a letter from Alison Philips in Rafah, in the Gaza Strip. "Yesterday morning (I think it was 1st may CM) I viewed some of the damage and was given tea by Abu Mahmoud who invited us in to the little house he has been renting since the IDF destroyed his own 3 storey home some months ago. It is the only house he has been able to find for his wife, himself and his 8 children. Just 2 small rooms with a corrugated asbestos roof which now has gaping holes in it from fragments of masonry hurled up in the explosions. One large stone is lodged across a gap. Some sixth sense made him send his family to a neighbour's house during the night before the bombs exploded, otherwise his children would surely have been injured by the debris crashing through the roof. "Why are they chasing me?" he asked "I don't have a problem with anyone. I have never hurt anybody. If Sharon came here I would give him tea like any other guest. I just try to find a life for myself and my family. What can I do? I have nowhere else to go." Such people are being demonised as "terrorists" by Israel instead of being given the protection and help they deserve… ..Last night shots were fired against the wall of the house where I sleep for the first time since I came and we feel the campaign to scare us off is increasing."

It has always seemed ironic that when the word "terrorism" is used it is applied almost exclusively to actions carried out by Palestinians, and almost never to actions of the Israeli army or Israeli Settlers. On Friday afternoon I sat and had a cup of coffee with George and Najla Azar in Beit Sahour. We were talking of the "situation". George said that the Israeli army had once again invaded that part of Bethlehem near Manger Square, and had declared a curfew while they searched for someone they wanted to apprehend. He said that he rarely went up the hill to Bethlehem - why should he put himself at risk of a stray Israeli bullet? In a sense, he has been terrorised, and is just as much afraid as an Israeli might be to go to a bar in Tel Aviv - yet the terrorists who affect him are in uniform.

For the first time for a long time, on Friday lunch time I was able to spend an hour with the Women in Black. Four episodes stand out in my mind today - three "small" and one more serious. In the first, an observant Jewish man, with his kippa on his head, sat at the wheel of his car, waiting for the traffic light to change, and kept shouting and spitting at us. He was calmed down somewhat when a couple of policemen went over to talk to him. I am sure that this is not his normal behaviour, and I doubt that he would teach his children to spit at others - yet such was his antagonism to the thought of people supporting the policy of ending the Occupation of the West Bank that he allowed himself to do this.

The second was another man shouting from his car, and calling us all "goyim" - Gentiles. If you support the end of the Occupation, you must be a Gentile. Labelling us that way enabled him to avoid facing up to the fact that 75% of those present and demonstrating were in fact Jewish women and men. They gave him his answer in Hebrew!

The third was two giggling young girls in the front seat of a bus that was stopped at the traffic lights. They seemed to be having great fun, holding up a sign which obviously they thought was funny. It read, in Hebrew, "Kill Arabs".

The fourth, more serious, was when a mad in his mid-30s walked along the row of women holding their placards, and spat at them all. As he approached the end of the row, he pushed one of the elderly women, who fell over backwards into the flower bed. The police apprehended him and took him to their van. An ambulance came, and the woman was taken to hospital, probably more as a precaution than because she was obviously injured.

So, yet again it is a sad place - and really very little hope that there is any chance of change.

We are well! May you stay well. God bless.

Joan and Clarence.

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Circular Letter No 124
20th April 2003

(Monday evening/Tuesday morning - 21st April) It would be nice to be able to say that Easter Sunday dawned bright and clear - but it would be wrong! It rained early in the morning, it was cool, if not cold, and the end of our Sunrise service was hastened by rain starting to fall. It is one way to sing the last hymn, moving the chairs inside! At least it got most people helping. There were 18 of us present, and most of us stayed for breakfast. There was then a long hiatus until the 1000 hours service, so some of us had a snooze.

At the 1000 hours service we had 42 people present, including one young Jewish woman who comes from time to time. We celebrated our Easter Communion, and then later in the morning celebrated Easter Lunch, when about 40 sat down to a very noisy lunch in the Guest House dining room. We were American, Dutch, English, Ghanaian, Japanese, Korean, Palestinian, Scottish. In mid-afternoon, when all had been cleared up, Joan and I took Helen Shehadeh along with George and Najla Azar back out to Bethlehem. Going in was no real problem. Coming out was a bit more time consuming as we arrived at the checkpoint at the time for changing the guard.

We are in the middle of the Passover (Pessah) Holiday. It is a great celebration for the Israeli Jewish population, but it also reveals a less pleasing national characteristic. Members of our congregation, trying to reach the Dormitian Abbey for a service at 0400 hours on Easter Sunday morning were denied car parking access to the public car park near the Church, as it was reserved for Jewish people coming to pray at the Western Wall later on Sunday. Christians could not park their cars to get to a Christian service. Details of their driving licence were taken. For us, on Easter Sunday afternoon at the Bethlehem checkpoint, it was interesting to observe the freedom with which Jewish people were able to pass through the checkpoint on their way to and from Rachel's Tomb - while we waited in a queue, a bus drove up, stopped to let a soldier out, and then drove on. Non-Jewish people wait while Jewish people get priority. Monday's Ha'aretz carried a photograph of Jewish people celebrating and dancing close to the Tomb of the Patriarchs in Hebron. This Tomb is sacred to be Jew and Muslim. However, the caption under the photograph read : "Jews celebrating the Passover holiday outside Hebron's Tomb of the Patriarchs yesterday. Several thousand pilgrims made their way to the city while the army kept 100,000 Arab residents of the town under curfew to provide security for the Jewish celebrants. More such events are scheduled for the coming days." If there were any Christian folk of the Western tradition among the population of Hebron, they were under curfew and unable to celebrate their holy feast of Easter. It also carried a report about the High Court of Justice deferring a decision about a petition from Jewish people who call themselves the Temple Mount Faithful, asking that they be allowed to worship on the Temple Mount. They argue that to allow only Arabs to worship there is racist.

Monday 21st evening. It is almost surreal sitting here in Jerusalem writing, and trying to reflect on what we have seen and heard today. To my left, looking out of the window, I can see the floodlit walls of the Old City, a monument to a conqueror in the 16th Century. The power of that Empire is now gone, though its influence still lives on. Many are the conquerors who have come to make Jerusalem their home, and in the process they have not only spilled much blood, but they have exiled inhabitants of the city. Today, we saw the contemporary conquerors at work in the northern part of the West Bank, and it was not a pretty sight. One of the effects of their work may well be to exile people now from their homes. One wonders if, in the end, they will prove to be any more effective this time than they were in a previous conquest.

The work that we went to see was the preparatory work for the Wall which is being built close to two villages. The villages are called Jayyus and Falame. They are in the foothills of the mountains, north of Qalqiliya, and looking out from them one can see clearly the coastal cities of Tel Aviv, Netanya, Hadera etc. "Wall" is the general word, though in the places which we visited today it is likely to be a "fence". That, however, should not be thought of as just a wire fence that you might have at the bottom of your garden. It will be a fence, in all probability electrified, with a patrol road alongside it for the army vehicles which will travel along it at regular intervals to check that it has not been breached, and on either side of a deep trench filled with razor wire. The land confiscated for this "fence" is at least 20 - 30 metres wide. Then there will be a "buffer zone" on either side of that, it which development will not be allowed on the Palestinian side. Whether or not farming will be allowed is not yet clear, according to the information we were given today.

The strange thing is that it is being built for "security", but as one English person in our group remarked, there is very little security afforded to those building it. There certainly is nothing to compare with the security forces that had to be arrayed to enforce the building of the Newbury by-pass in England. Bulldozers, graders, trucks, power shovels - all were working and we saw not a sign of "security" to protect the workers.

We were bombarded with information and questions :

The cost of the Wall is $2 million per kilometre

The line of the wall is anything from a few metres to a few kilometres on the Eastern (Palestinian) side of the Green Line.

Much is made of the choice of the line of the Wall as providing a defensible boundary. That may be so, but in the vicinity of Jayyus and Falame, the site of the Wall divides the village from its agricultural land. In the case of Jayyus, we were told that 90% of its agricultural land would be on the Western side of the Wall; in the case of Falame, 50 % of its land would be West of the Wall. Is it entirely co-incidental that this land contains all the wells that supply water for the villages, and for the irrigation of their crops? Also that near Falame is the Settlement I which many leading army people have their homes, and to ensure that they would not even have to see the Wall, it was moved 600 metres closer to the village, resulting in the separation of village and agricultural land.

Prior to the clearing of the line of the Wall, there were 7 dirt roads down from Jayyus village to its fields - now there is only one such road open. The villagers do not know if there will be any access to their fields - they have been told that there will be one gate, but they do not know on what grounds access will be allowed to their fields. Will anyone be able to go? Will it only be certain categories of people - the old, the female, and the children? Will they have to pay to pass through the gate? Will it be open limited hours? At present, checkpoints are often closed on Jewish holy festivals - will this be the case for farmers wishing to get to their land?

What will be the status of the land beyond the Wall? Has it been confiscated? The information from the Israeli side is that the status of the land will be decided in 2005. It is not lost on anyone that this is 3 years away. It is also not lost on anyone that according to laws going back to the Ottoman times, which are still in force, if one does not work land for 3 years, then one loses the right to it. If the obstacles put in the way of farmers getting to their land mean that they are not able to work it, will this then be used as a pretext for confiscating the "unused" land?

It is not lost on the Palestinians that the line which has been designated for the Wall runs, almost without exception, to the East of the Settlements that are close to the Green Line, meaning that not only have they been built on land conquered in 1967, but they will physically be a part of Greater Israel, and who is going to give them back in any future peace deal? Rather, in order to protect Settlements, the Wall is going kilometres East of the Green Line.

And so one could go on.

It was perhaps the most dispiriting day that we have spent here since we came in July 2000. Dispiriting in that it seems there is no way out of the morass in which the two communities now have to live. Dispiriting in that it seems no-one in the outside world seems to care, or to want to do anything about it, or to be able to do anything about it. Dispiriting in that just as the saying goes that "the blood of the martyrs is the seed of the Church" so the seeds of the next conflict are being sown all across the West Bank.

Some stories.

"A" lives in his house in the Jayyus. He was a motor mechanic in Israel, but then was unable to get to work, and so had to try to start up some sort of business from his home. Part of his house became like a garage. However, the family managed. Then blasting started to clear the rocks for the building of the wall. His house was one of those affected structurally, and part of it became unsafe. He and his family were forced to sleep in one room, for fear that other parts of the house might collapse, Like many families here, his family is large - and includes boys and girls. One of his daughters is now a teenager. Tradition and custom dictates that she does not sleep in the same room as her parents or brothers. Yet where can she go? And with no work, and little income, what can he do? If someone came and asked to marry his daughter, he would be virtually forced to agree, even though she may technically be under-age. Then of course he, and his society, will be castigated for the way in which they marry off their young daughters.

"B" is a young woman in Jayyus. After marriage, her children arrived at regular intervals, and soon there were 6 of them. As her husband was partially disabled and did not earn much money, she started working as a seamstress to bring in some additional money. It was their determination which allowed them to save enough money to extend their house by building on an extra couple of rooms to give their children the space they needed. However, they had no land, and so could have no olive trees of their own. There is a saying to the effect that if you have olive oil and bread you will never be hungry. So, it was back to saving. Finally, they got together enough money, some of it raised by selling her wedding gold, and they bought a small plot of land on which they planted some olive trees. This past harvest was the best that they had had. Then one day she was down among her trees when she noticed red and blue markers. She did not know what they signified and so she asked her neighbours. The red markers signified the centre of where the new Wall would be - right through her plot. There was nothing she could do. When the people came to clear the land, she watched them from her house - first cutting the tops off the trees, then cutting the trunks, and finally uprooting what was left - "shaving the land" is what it is called.

"C" lives on the edge of Jayyus. About 400 metres from his house will be the wall, just behind the top of the hill. It is said that on this hill there will be an Israeli army outpost. As we passed on our way to look at the construction site, he was working in his garden. He had rescued some of the old olive trees that had been cut and then uprooted. Several of them he had been able to get to his house, and were now planted. What seemed like dead and barren wood was producing the tiniest of green shoots - and the hope was clear on his face that he would have living trees in time.

Falame village has orange groves, which are irrigated from the wells that it has. When the diggers came to prepare the track of the Wall, the pipes from the wells - 15 cm substantial metal pipes - were ripped up and the trees were left dry. Fortunately it was in the winter, which has been a very wet one, so there was some natural water for the trees. The villagers took their case to the High Court, and got a judgement in their favour allowing them to put the pipes back again, under the level of the Wall, thus providing irrigation for their farms. The big trouble is that there is not intended to be a gate near their village to allow them access to their farms on the Western side of the wall. If there is one at Jayyus, they will have to use it. So, instead of a 5-minute walk from their homes to their trees, it will be a 5 km drive, if they have a vehicle, negotiate the gate, and then drive 5 kms back to their land.

Just two villages, and three or four stories. Our guide was Jemal from Palestinian Environmental NGOs Network (Pengon). More information can be had from him at outreach@pengon.org. Website www.pengon.org

Monday seemed as if we were back in the darkness of Maundy Thursday, or even Good Friday, without knowing if or when there would be an Easter Sunday.


Bye for now.

Joan and Clarence

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Circular Letter No 123
The "in-between" Saturday - 19th April 2003

Maundy Thursday.

Better late than never might have been our watchword, as we arrived rather late for the Service of the Washing of Feet at St George's Episcopal Cathedral. The Bishop was just finishing his sermon when we arrived. Perhaps that was fortuitous, as he was preaching in Arabic!

2030 hours. A "procession", as one of the organisers called it, moved off from the Cathedral to walk to Gethsemane. (I thought we were a bit more like a gaggle.) The streets in the vicinity of the Cathedral were not too busy, but as we approached one of the exits from the Temple Mount, there were many more pedestrians and vehicles, with people leaving the Mosque after Prayers. We were a small group, and as we approached the bottom of the Mount of Olives, we had to contend with a large number of people making their way back towards the Old City from the Church of All Nations, beside the Garden of Gethsemane. Whereas in former years, such a crowd would have had a large component of tourists, now there are insignificant numbers of people visiting for Easter. Perhaps that encourages the local Christians to come out, and in one sense to reclaim the Easter observances for themselves. Yet, everyone wishes that there were more representatives of the world-wide church sharing with us at present.

We made our way a few hundred metres past the area marked as the Garden of Gethsemane, up the side of the Mount of Olives, where we stopped for our time of reflection. It was a clear night, and as the moon came up, it was almost painfully bright in the sky. There was the usual glare of street lights, along the roads by the City Walls. There were the lights of traffic, and the general noise of humanity. Far from being the silent haven for meditation, it was just a dark place on the edge of a lot of activity - much of it caused by people like us, perhaps seeking quiet! As our eyes became accustomed to the light, we could see the stars, distant parts of the Universe, yet linked to us and what was happening by being part of the work of the one Creator.

On the Thursday when Jesus was arrested, there would also have been an almost-full moon. One imagines that there would also have been quite a bit of activity around, as the Garden faces on to the Temple Mount, the centre for much of the action of Passover. There would have been police around, to keep the peace. They would have had their "gear" with them. It was just the same last Thursday, with police around, only driving rather than walking.

The Israeli Army and police use a type of horn or klaxon in their vehicles, which is very distinctive, and I find it very aggressive. On Thursday, the air was punctuated by the noise made by klaxons - perhaps necessary, perhaps a way of reminding both Muslims coming from the Mosque and Christians in the Gethsemane area just who wields power at present. While we were there, the noise gradually abated, as the numbers of people around diminished.

I do not know if the same sort of conifer trees were around when Jesus was in the city, but looking eastward to the rising moon, we looked through a sort of black trellis of pine trees, which were almost like prison bars in front of the moon. Everything around helped to set an atmosphere - foreboding, threatening, and far from quiet. If the noise of this Maundy Thursday was anything to go by, the arrest of Jesus was a noisy affair, and just one incident in the middle of all the celebrations of the Passover.


Good Friday

0615 hours. The Annual Good Friday Walk along the Via Dolorosa, led by St George's Episcopal Church, started off from Station 1. By contrast with last year, it was bright, warm, and dry. By the time that we reached the end of the Walk, outside the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, there were about 70 of us. Along the way, we passed many groups of other Christians, quite a few of them groups of nuns, making their own private pilgrimage and stopping to pray at each Station.

On previous years, Joan and I have made our way down to the First Station from the Jaffa Gate - leading into the "Tourist Section" of the Old City. This year we made our way in from the Damascus Gate, passing through what is essentially a trading section of the Old City - an Arab trading section. Three things stood out - at 0600 hours : the presence of armed Israeli Border Police; the presence of quite a number of Arab women traders setting out their bags of vine leaves, spring onions, and herbs, for the day's business; and shops already open for business.

The Via Dolorosa does not pass through some sort of Disneyworld film set, where all is antiseptic and all extraneous noises have been excluded. It goes through a living, working, community. People on their way to work - mostly Arab Muslims - have to negotiate the crowd of worshippers. Tractors - the narrow gauge variety that ply the streets of the Old City - picking up garbage or delivering goods - wait with engines running noisily to find a way past. At one point, two tiny tots on their way to school passed by - brother shepherding sister past this unusual group gathered round a Cross. And for me, one of the most telling parts of the reality of the whole situation was when we stopped at the Fifth Station of the Cross, where the role of Simon of Cyrene is recalled. Scripture verses were read, prayers were said, a hymn was started - all while we were standing round a pile of bags of garbage waiting to be collected. For me, it exemplified the reality of the Word made Flesh - even in a world so full of garbage - both literal and metaphorical. In one way it would have been nice to have had the peace and quiet of a special pilgrimage centre. On the other hand, it would have been entirely false to the fundamental claim of the Gospel to be addressing the issues of the world in which people live their ordinary lives.


1500 hours. There is a tradition, at least 3 years' old, but I suspect many more than that, of walking from St Andrew's Church to the Cenacle - one of the possible sites of the Last Supper. After prayers there, the walk proceeds to St Peter in Gallicantu, the possible site of the house of Caiaphas the High Priest, where Jesus had his first trial, and where Peter denied him. After more prayers, we return to St Andrew's for a service in the Church.

This year, we thought we would be very few. However, in the end 12 from St Andrew's and 6 from Tantur Ecumenical Institute made the walk, under a beautiful blue sky, and a warm sun.

We climbed to the roof of the building which houses the Cenacle - close to the Dormitian Abbey. As I think I recalled in an earlier letter, the building incorporates a Jewish Holy Place on the ground floor - the Tomb of David; above it a room to which many Christian pilgrims come, as a place where the Last Supper may have taken place; and on the top floor, a Minaret from a Mosque, not at present being used as a Mosque. We climbed the stairs to the roof, from which we could see part of the Temple Mount and part of the Mount of Olives. For a while we shared the space with a Jewish family, all decked out in their "Sunday" holiday clothes, as this is still part of the Pesach (Passover) holiday. While we read Scripture, shared a Prayer, and sang a hymn on one side of the cupola, on the other side was a Jewish man reciting his prayers.

From the Cenacle we went down the hill to the Church of St Peter in Gallicantu. It had been the venue for 6 busloads of Filipino people living in the Jaffa area of Israel, who had come to worship on Good Friday. For them, it was both a religious festival, and a social outing, - a way of expressing the identity of the two communities to which they belong - the Faith Community of the Catholic Church, and the Ethnic community of coming from the Philippines, while living and working in Israel.

At both places, the music for our hymn was provided by Emiko playing her flute. She is a young Japanese Christian woman, married to an Israeli and living not far from St Andrew's.

1700 hours. We have a service in the Church - basically the reading of the Passion Narrative, with appropriate hymns. The music on the organ is provided by Chang-Lim, a Christian woman from Korea, who have been members of St Andrew's for many years. It was after the service that Joan was talking with Alice Abusharr. During our service, we had sung the hymn "There is a green hill far away . . . ", and Alice remarked to Joan that when she first sang that hymn, they changed it slightly to be "There is a green hill not far away . . .". She was singing it within a kilometre of Golgotha. It had never occurred to me to change it, yet how inaccurate it really is in our context.


Our church building is in West Jerusalem, and the route of our afternoon walk was in West Jerusalem. Being still part of the HolyDays, it was very pleasant to see family groups out for a walk, or having a picnic in the park. Some of them shared a greeting of "Shalom" as we passed - one of the groups even was the first to greet us. So there was a picture of tranquillity and normality, which I recognise is offset by the opposite picture of family groups being unable to relax in the same way in many parts of the West Bank.

Our community for Good Friday was international and ecumenical. For me, one of the most heartening features was the presence of leading members of the Catholic community, sharing in the much less formal worship of St Andrew's.

Two of those present were young women - Emiko from Japan, and Wendy from Holland. As we walked we heard a bit of their different stories. The one is married to an Israeli Christian Arab, having met in a city in Japan. The other has been living with an Israeli Jewish man for 5 years, having met him when she was a tourist in Israel. It is impossible to tell of the different stresses and strains that they both feel - yet they were with us on Good Friday, very much sharing in worship together. Undoubtedly they have their part to play in whatever solution will materialise to the problems of the relationships of the different communities here.


Saturday morning. The sun is rising as I am writing this. Shortly I will go out to Beit Jala, to make sure that Helen and her school family get on their way to Jericho without any hitches. Later, we will go to Beit Sahour to collect the food for lunch tomorrow. We hope to be about 40 sharing a meal after our Easter Communion.


Recently Alison Phillips, a Scottish friend, came out to Jerusalem for a couple of days, and then went on to a short time of training to share in the work of "human shields" in Gaza. She is now in the southern part of the Gaza Strip and has been writing of her experiences there. I have found her letters very moving. She ends her last letter with these words : "Rafah (at the southern extremity of the Gaza Strip) is cut off from the world. The cries of those who protest against all the endless injustices, killings, injuries, imprisonment, restrictions go out to no-one but the residents and blend with the dust and dirt and seem to change nothing. Does no-one care?" I am sure that she would be glad for others to receive them. If you would like to have her e-mail address, please contact me, and I will get in touch with Alison on your behalf.


It is hard to resist the conclusion that the world is in a mess. Yet even in middle of the mess, there are the modern day equivalents of Simon of Cyrene, wittingly or unwittingly walking alongside Jesus and doing his work. Seeing them at work, one is given hope. It is not a hope for a new "world" order - that is a Utopia - but a hope for a new "people" order with individuals being re-created, and being enabled to live and work together. Maybe that too, is Utopian. But it has been good this Easter to have been able to walk the streets of Jerusalem - certainly to be aware of the divisions and the hatreds, but also to recognise that someone once did set an example of an alternative way.


Maybe next year, you will have the chance to be here.


Just to make sure that we do not lose sight of the real world, on Monday we hope to be part of a group going to have a look at the Wall, and meet some of the communities most affected by its construction.


God bless. Peace for Easter.

Joan and Clarence
 

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Circular Letter No 122
16th April 2003

I am aware that this is much later than normal - the Muse has been a bit silent, and the Well dry, to mix metaphors!

6th April Sunday saw the closing service for a Solidarity Conference which had been held this past week by Sabeel. Sabeel is a Palestinian Liberation Theology organisation, with supporters all over the world. Until a few weeks ago, over 120 had registered to come to the Conference. Then the numbers fell until about 40 actually came. During their visit here, they travelled widely on the West Bank, some will go to Gaza, and then they will go home. The good thing is that there has not been a single "security" incident at all. Interestingly the Service was held in the church of St Peter in Gallicantu, which is linked with the house of Caiaphas, and in which there is a sort of "cell" which is pointed out as having been a possible place for the keeping of Jesus on Maundy Thursday night. In the garden are steps cut in the rock, leading down to a path which makes its way along the Kidron Valley towards Gethsemane, and again a possible route for Jesus from the city to Gethsemane, after the Last Supper. All in all, quite a fitting place to have a service for an organisation with its aim being Liberation within a Theological framework, which will respect the whole of God's Community.

After the service, 6 of us had a cold drink and a cup of coffee - Rizek and Alice Abusharr, Bassem and Hind Khoury, and Joan and myself. Bassem and Hind are in the process of having to look for new accommodation. It is not that they don't have a house - theirs is the house in Bethlehem which, unless there is a change of plan, will be virtually surrounded by a wall built by the Israelis and by Israeli army positions. I have no idea how you retain sanity in such a situation.

There is much talk of the "Road Map", and a hope against hope that it will in fact produce some sort of Agreement. On the Palestinian side, there has to be a "cessation of terror, violence and incitement." On the Israeli side there has to be a "freeze on Jewish Settlements in the territories, including their natural increase." An article about Settlements by a Jewish journalist, Danny Rubinstein, in Haa'aretz of Monday 7th April, has some stark news. "From the beginning of the peace process at the Madrid Conference in 1991, until the outbreak of the Intifada in 2000, the number of Jewish settlers in the territories doubled, from 100,000 to 200,000." It ends as follows : "A social and political earthquake in Israel will be needed to stop the development of the settlements and to freeze their growth. There is not a chance that the government of Prime Minister Ariel Sharon will even get anywhere near this road map." Certainly, anything that I have seen in the limited areas that I have visited, will bear out the enormous, and perhaps impossible, task of trying to extricate the Settlements from the West Bank.

Tuesday 15th. Having been asked for assistance by Helen Shehadeh some days ago to try to obtain travel permits for the staff and children of the Al Shurooq school to make a trip to Jericho, I eventually got time to attend to it today. Preparatory work included getting from Helen a list of the names of the adults for whom Travel Permits would be requested. A phone call to the Ministry of Religious Affairs produced a helpful and positive response, though it was pointed out that the Pesach (Passover) holiday commences on 16th, and so there was a limited amount of time for anything to be done. However, a short while later the person from the Ministry called back to say that he had been in touch with the relevant Military authorities, recommending that permits be issued. At the first opportunity in the afternoon, I drove the 22 kms out to the Military Office, to try to obtain the permits, arriving at the Office at 1525 hours. The Military Office is firmly in the West Bank, several kms south of Bethlehem.

(With reference to the previous paragraph about Settlements, standing at the front of the hut which is the office where Permit applications are dealt with, and looking northwards, the top of every hill in sight is occupied by Settlement buildings. On the way to the Office, a new road is being built. At the intersection leading to the Office, a large area has been paved, which is where one of the main checkpoints on the road to Hebron is located. It gives all the appearance of being what the Israeli government would plan to be the major border between any future Palestinian state and Israel - yet it is some 15 kms inside the Green Line. Mary is a member of the congregation of St Andrew's, and her family land in this area is now almost surrounded by Settlements. She is almost resigned to the fact that, regardless of how hard they fight, and what judgements might be given in their favour in the Courts, they will lose their land.)

The office is a hut, with a queuing area leading to 5 windows. Only one of them is in use. Standing around are 5 men of different ages, and a couple of women who appear to be about 50 years of age. The queuing area is concrete, with iron railings marking 5 possible lines. The railings are superfluous this afternoon, with only one place in use. There is a roof, but apart from that the queuing area is open to the elements. The wind is blowing, and despite the fact that it is April, everyone feels the cold. There is also a very basic hut in which are seats, where there is some protection from the elements. Inside, in the small office, there is one young Army lass working. She is not evident for the first 10 minutes that we are waiting there, as she is working on applications for people standing waiting. Eventually she does appear and hands over the papers that she has prepared. One of the women then sees that instead of a permit for what I gather was the usual time she had been granted in the past - a month - this time she has been given only a week. Argument proved pointless and in the end she had to accept the decision of this young girl, who could almost have been her grand-daughter, and leave with a permit for a week. This would mean yet another journey back to the Office, another wait, and in the end having to live with the decision of a person who is really a sort of Civil Service Clerk, even though she is in Army uniform.

My letter is taken, and she disappears out of the hut into a more substantial building at the back of it. 20 minutes later she comes back with another army person, and she has brought with her the papers that were faxed through from the Ministry of Religious Affairs that morning. Then begins the process of preparing the actual permits. The ID numbers of each of the 11 adults were entered in her computer and eventually 9 of them come up with approval. About 90 minutes after arriving, Joan and I are able to leave with the permits. We are the lucky ones. While we were there, 8 or 9 other people arrived, and they just had to wait. They were still there when we left. [Over the past couple of years, I have had to deal occasionally with this Military Office, usually by telephone, and to do with getting through checkpoints. As an expatriate I have usually been helped by personnel there. I know that it is different for my Palestinian colleagues in other churches.]

All this effort was to obtain permits for the school to go on an outing. They were going from one part of the West Bank to another, yet such is the control exercised by the Israeli Army that even for this sort of journey, for 25 kids who are blind or partially sighted along with the adults who will assist them, permits are needed. The ironical thing is that a person cannot travel without a permit - so even to get to the office to request a permit should, in theory, require a permit!

Anyway that part of the mission was completed painlessly, though it was time consuming. The next part was to deliver the permits to Helen in Bait Jala. The drive back to Jerusalem passes a substantial checkpoint, where we are in fact unusually waved through. Then it is the checkpoint to get into the Bethlehem area, and again it is a brief pause. A clerical collar and white plates on the car do help! Helen is delighted to have the permits, though upset that two of her staff were refused. One of them is the only man, whose absence will place a strain on the women, who will have to carry at least one of the children who is not ambulant. With the delivery of the permits accomplished it is time to head for home. Again, at the checkpoint out of Bethlehem, there is no traffic, and so it is a short pause before we are on our way. We really are privileged, when one thinks of all the other folk who cannot get out at all.

The whole afternoon just reinforces the way in which the Israeli authorities are losing the struggle to win the hearts and minds of the Palestinians - perhaps they have given up, perhaps they do not regard that as important. Perhaps the building of the Wall is the way in which they hope to separate the two peoples so that winning or losing friendship will be of no significance.

This is Holy Week - yet it seems harder to focus on it this year than in the past, with all that is going on in this region. Here are a few snapshots.

Saturday 12th. There is a dinner for the leaders of some of the Churches to meet the Archbishop of Canterbury, who is in Jerusalem for 24 hours, on a very low key visit. He had brought with him a Pastoral Letter, which he shared with us. Part of it is as follows : "Even ten years ago, few people would have thought the day would come when the peace of the world would depend so directly on the peace of Jerusalem. But for the last few months, with all the suffering and fear they have brought, it has been so painfully clear that without peace and justice for all the peoples of the Holy Land there is small hope of lasting reconciliation in the wider world. …. Peace never comes without cost; so the deepest enemy to peace is always the spirit of grasping and clinging to what makes us feel safe – while the truth is that we shall only be safe when others are not frightened of us, when others do not feel silenced, despised or suffocated by us. Again and again, we have to return to the question, ‘How do we speak to each other words of hope that will take away the fear?’" For me, the phrase that stuck in my mind was "we shall only be safe when others are not frightened of us." If he is right, then the walls, the checkpoints, the Settlements, the Army patrols - none of them will provide that safety for which the Israeli people seek - and none of the rock-throwing, shooting or bombing will provide the peace and justice that the Palestinian people seek.

Sunday 13th. The Palm Sunday walk took place as usual from the Church at Bethphage, associated with the place from which Jesus set out to travel into Jerusalem. I did not think that there were as many people in the procession this year as last, but others thought there were more! Certainly, the army and police presence was less than a couple of years ago, but once again it raises the question as to what they thought their function was. Were the marchers going to attack people along the way? Were the local people going to attack the marchers? Or were there other elements in the society from whom we had to be protected? Who knows. I doubt that the world stopped on the day that Jesus entered Jerusalem - people got on with their lives. So it was on Palm Sunday this year - people passed us as they got on with their lives, and the city got on with its normal activities. At the end of the procession, when we were making our way home through the city carrying our bits of Palm Branches, kids looked at us, and you could see them wondering what it was all about! Joan and I stopped in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre for a moment as we passed - sadly there was a "worship procession" making its was round the church, and so the Stations of the Cross associated with the Crucifixion were closed off till the procession had completed its circuit. Down to earth with a bump!!

Footnote : You have no need of me to comment on the Iraq war/liberation/invasion - depending on how you see it. One comment from a Palestinian person was : That's two Arab countries occupied (Palestine and Iraq). Where next? From him, and from many, there is a feeling of inevitability that Syria may not last long.

One person who has recently obtained an Israeli Driving Licence is speculating that before his contract ends here, he will be able to drive to Damascus and Baghdad using his Israeli licence. Who knows.


Leaving a meeting yesterday a Jewish friend wished me a Happy Easter - and then he stopped and said that he did not know if that was the right phrase. We ended by both wishing each other blessings in our respective Feasts - Pesach and Easter. Wherever you are, Easter Blessing to you.

Joan and Clarence.

Clearing out our Apartment to move to the Church apartment, I found a Calendar for the year 2000, with the motto : "Calendar 2000. Hope for a Millennium of Peace with the Lord of Hope and Peace."
 

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Circular Letter No 121
5th April 2003


"Comment from me on the war in Iraq would probably be redundant, so you will not be subjected to my thoughts on that." This was the opening line in Letter No 120. Let me deviate from it only slightly.

TV pictures showed the effect on a market of being hit by a missile. Allegations that it was an American missile that had hit the wrong target were soon countered by top political leaders and army commanders. "It was not our missile, it was theirs." Reports came in of the killing of 7 women and children by US soldiers at a check point. "It was not our fault. It was theirs. If there had been no suicide bomber, there would not have been the same anxiety about a car that did not stop." These are so similar to the responses that we have heard over the past months from the Israeli army, when Palestinian civilians have been killed. "It was not our tank shell, but their home-made explosives". "The vehicle did not stop at the road block." TV pictures show the same sort of lines of traffic at a check point, the same sort of scrutiny of papers by soldiers, and one suspects the same sort of frustration building up in the drivers and people who are being delayed. One hopes that the American and British forces in Iraq do not go down the same road as the Israeli army has taken in the West Bank and Gaza. It was a wry sense of humour that a Palestinian friend remarked that what he was looking at in Iraq as far as check points went was just what he had been experiencing for almost 2 years. He said it was like being at home.

Check points. The one with which I am most familiar is at Bethlehem. There is a look-out tower at the side of the road, in which is placed an armed soldier. There are a few soldiers actually dealing with each vehicle as it is allowed to come up to the check point. Vehicles are stopped up to 30 metres from the soldiers. The last time I was in Bethlehem, additional concrete barriers had been placed in the road, making it more difficult for vehicles to actually get to the soldiers. When you get to the head of the queue you then have to watch the soldiers with eagle eyes, to see when, or if, they are waving their hand for you to drive up. Drive up without that wave of the hand, and you risk being sent back. It is bad enough for an expatriate like me to be sent back. It is much worse for a Palestinian. There is added risk to it all if one is approaching the check point after dark - where are the soldiers, in the first place. Only secondly does one ask if they are motioning you to drive forward.

However, at the check point near Idna, it seems as if we have become known, and now it is a question of stopping and being recognised, before being allowed to proceed.

On Sunday, after the service, a young woman who has started attending services shared coffee with us. "Pray for us tomorrow" she said. "We are taking a convoy of food and humanitarian aid into an area in the south of the Gaza Strip that is exceedingly isolated." She was a bit apprehensive. In the end, the convoy made it through, and returned, in safety.

As I am sure is the case with many of you, we receive e-mails from many organisations. One such that I think is worth passing on is the following, from B'Tselem, the Jewish Organisation which monitors human rights violations on the West Bank and in Gaza.

March 31st, 2003. Press release. Better Late than Never

B’Tselem’s response to the Y-Net article stating that the Southern Command will cease punitive house demolitions in Gaza. B’Tselem commends the Southern Command for its decision to end the policy of demolishing Palestinian houses as a form of punishment. B’Tselem calls on the OC Central Commander to implement a similar decision. The use of punitive house demolitions is in violation of international law. It constitutes a form of illegal collective punishment and harms innocent civilians. During the current Intifada, the IDF began carrying out punitive house demolitions on October 23, 2001. The IDF adopted a policy of demolishing the houses of families of Palestinians who carried out suicide attacks or are suspected of attacking Israelis. According to B’Tselem’s statistics, in the current Intifada, 267 houses have been demolished as punishment, of which 58 are in the Gaza Strip. (Wednesday's Ha'aretz carried a photograph and an article, Page 3 - about the demolition of one house near Tulkarm, and 4 houses near Ramallah. One was the home of a suicide bomber of last weekend, and the others belong to "four suspected militants" of the Al Aqsa Martyrs' Brigade. Thursday's Ha'aretz carried a report that a house had been demolished in Hebron. Friday's Ha'aretz reported that dozens of Israeli army vehicles, tanks and bulldozers entered the Rafah refugee camp in the Gaza strip early on Thursday, and four homes were destroyed.)

On Tuesday, we had meetings of the Finance Committee and School Board of Tabeetha School, the Church of Scotland school in Jaffa. After many years of effort, the School gained certification from the Ministry of Education that it should receive per capita grants for the pupils in the school, to help pay for the cost of running the school. After more effort, this certification was extended to the secondary school also, so that now grants are received in respect of all the pupils in the school. This grant now comprises approx 27% of the school budget. At our meetings on Tuesday, we were told that a circular letter had been received from the Ministry of Education stating that as a result of the economic situation in the country, the grant for 2003 would be cut by 20%. Assuming that this is put into effect, that leaves the school to find approx NIS 250,000 in order to balance its budget for this year. (Today's exchange rate in the paper is NIS 4.65 = US$1. We have to find almost $54,000). The financial pages of the paper on Wednesday provide some of the background to the decision of the Ministry of Education. They report a budget surplus for March of NIS 1.1. billion. That however, it is said, was due to the arrival of NIS 2 billion in aid from the US. In March 2003 tax collection was down 4% from March 2002

On Thursday, I had the unusual experience of addressing a gathering of 30 or 40 people who were part of a day conference organised by the Friends of the Hebrew University. The theme of the day was "Judaism - one world and many worlds" I was the only non-Israeli invited to speak, and the only non-Jewish person speaker. I spoke on the title "Reflections of a Christian 'visitor'". After me came a Rabbi, Mrs Maya Leibovich, who had a fascinating exposition of the story of Deborah, under the heading "Woe unto a generation led by a woman!" which was a comment on this story by a later Jewish sage. The final English language paper of the morning was entitled "The place of the Jewish State in the community of nations", and was given by a Professor from the Hebrew University.

Having taken some time to explain who I was, I spoke briefly about three topics:

contrasting my impression of the great debates in Judaism regarding such matters as the application of the Law to contemporary society, and the need for precision in explaining words, with the use of the word "Anti-Semitism" to refer to actions and words against Jewish people, while ignoring other Semitic people;


literalism in the interpretation of Scriptures, whether within the Christian Faith or the Jewish Faith. Reference to the Battle of Jericho (!)

the very occasional times when I hear reference being made to the Prophets of the Old Testament, while there is so much emphasis on the Law and the Covenant.

I elicited responses about how I did not understand the relationship of Jewish people to the Land, how I had not experienced the change in the attitude of Palestinians to Jewish people, and the hatred that is there now, as opposed to before the Intifada, and the enduring influence on today's generation of the Holocaust.

The third lecture of the morning session was very illuminating. The Professor limited himself to trying to account for the current attitude to Israel of European academics and politicians. He spent some time analysing the events of May 2000 to January 2001 - the attempt to arrange an "exchange " of land for peace with Syria, which failed; the attempt to arrange a peace with Lebanon, which failed, but where the Israelis unilaterally withdrew from S Lebanon anyway; . and Camp David, where we heard once again of the perception that Mr Barak had made a generous offer of land for peace, which had been refused by Mr Arafat. Why, in the eyes of European academics and politicians, was Israel presented as the "bad guy" despite it having made these offers to its neighbours? In the final analysis it came down to the fact that the Jewish leaders of the day had not accepted Jesus as Messiah, some 2,000 years ago. As a result of that, Europeans could not see Jewish people as being fit to govern themselves, nor fit to have their own country. Several of the people present asked me how I had felt about the talk. It was sad to hear an academic, who spoke of the analytical nature of his work, putting forward such views. Sad also that he did not require the same degree of "proof" for the offer of Mr Barak as he required for establishing the goodwill of Mr Arafat. The sessions in which we were able to share reinforced the feeling of the tremendous range of attitudes and beliefs among Jewish people, and the very great difficulty that there is in finding any way to communicate with people here. It was also interesting to hear people say how they had been involved in the "Peace" process prior to the Intifada, but had now completely changed. They had had no contact with Palestinians for years.

One of the great anxieties among Palestinians to which I have referred before is what will the Israeli army be allowed to do while the eyes of the world are on Iraq. It may be that we got a bit of an answer on Wednesday.

At 0300 hours on Wednesday morning the Israeli army surrounded a refugee camp at Tulkarm. All roads to and from the camp were blocked with barbed wire, and jeeps and tanks started moving in. Jeeps driving through the camps announced with loud speakers that all males aged between 15 and 40 had to take their ID cards and report to a compound in the centre of the camp where the two schools that UNRWA run are located. The men had to line up, were frisked and mobile phones taken. These were only returned when the army had finished making logs of all the numbers stored in their memories. Soldiers ordered the Palestinians to get on buses that took them a few kilometres east of Tul Karm, and told them not to return home for three days, until the military had finished its searches. This was reported in the paper (Ha'aretz) on Thursday and Friday, with a photograph on Friday of soldiers on foot patrol and the caption, "On Wednesday, all men aged 15 - 40 were removed from the city". Memories of similar sorts of removals in the Balkans come back to the surface. Is this a trial run for Transfer? Move all the men, and the others will have to go in time? We just have to wait and see.

Friday (Page 3 Ha'aretz) : "IDF troops kill seven in territories", beside a photograph of an excavator being used to demolish Palestinian houses in East Jerusalem, while at the bottom of the page is an article "Jews move into new East Jerusalem neighbourhood." …"The construction of Jewish neighbourhoods in East Jerusalem is believed to be aimed at blocking any possibility of dividing Jerusalem." Under UN Resolution 242, such building is illegal.

I wonder how much of this made it on to the news programmes of the world this past week?

Good news : At Idna, we have arranged for a young teacher to take English classes with some of the women of the Co-operative. Next stop - computers? Who knows. Thanks to the donor whose gift has made this possible.

Our TV in our apartment comes from a Cable TV company. Normally we have 3 international news channels - Sky, CNN and BBC World. On Tuesday, we woke up to an announcement that BBC World was being discontinued. It apparently had failed to negotiate a financial agreement with the Cable Companies. Friday night - still off the air.

Palestinian Humour : The Curfews will in the end of the day be counter-productive for Israel. What do they expect when husbands and wives are locked up all day, and no TV? Watch out for the baby boom!

Stay well. God bless.

Joan and Clarence.


PS. If all goes according to plan, we shall move house next week to the apartment in St Andrew's Church Centre. Address will remain the same, but as from Friday or Saturday next week, our personal phone number will be 00 972 2 671 8747.
 

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Circular Letter No 120
March 2003



Comment from me on the war in Iraq would probably be redundant, so you will not be subjected to my thoughts on that.


Saturday 22rd March. Time off. There is good precedent for going off to the desert when you need a bit of space. Joan and I drove down to En Gedi today, to have a walk in the wadis that are part of the National Park. En Gedi is about 80 kms from our house, and the water of the springs runs down into the Dead Sea.

There had been some rain overnight in the area, so the dust had been dampened, and the air was clear. We walked up Wadi David, climbing up the side of the escarpment which is the side of the Rift Valley. The springs are perennial, the water coming from underground sources fed by the rain in the winter. The area is host to the densest concentration of tropical plants growing in Israel, and this also means that there are many birds and animals.

Driving along the main road, as most people do, in air-conditioned buses with tinted glass, you get no idea of the wealth of vegetation that is present on the seemingly barren hillside. Walking, one is able to see the flowers - yellow, pinkish red, blue, lavender - and lots of different sorts of grasses, shrubs and trees, which at this time of the year are all over the place. As we were coming back off the hill, we encountered a group of 14 Ibex walking along and grazing on the grass and plants. They were obviously accustomed to the presence of humans - they had a good look at us having a good look at them - and got on with their browsing.

Sitting under a tree looking across at the beautiful colours of the hills of Jordan there was space to reflect on the mess of the world - and it made sense of the time that Jesus spent in the desert after his Baptism. No TV, no Radio, no Newspapers, but time to listen to the birds, watch the Ibex, see the plants that flourish when the rain comes - it all put a different perspective on the passage of time, and the frenetic activity of the world. In addition, it gave a bit more background to the significance of the stories of Jesus about seeds falling on rocky ground, and about the crucial importance of water.

{I am not a very good Biblical Scholar. At what time of the year did John the Baptist baptise Jesus?. At what time of the year did Moses look across the Jordan to Jericho, and see that it was a land of milk and honey?}

Then it was time to come back home - and listen to the news again. I suppose George W Bush does really believe that he is making the world a better place.


Sunday 23rd March. One of the great anxieties among both the Jewish "Peace" movement and the Pa