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Ferryhill Parish Church, Aberdeen

 

Letter from Jerusalem

Other Letters:

Index
No 25-30
No 31-36
No 37-41
No 42-48
No 49-60
No 61-69
No 70-79
No 80-89
No 90-100
No 101-109
No 110-119
No 120-129
No 130-139
No 140-149
No 150-159
No 160-169
No 170-179
No 180-189
No 190-199
No 200-209
No 210-219
No 220-229
No 230-239
No 240-249
No 250-259

No 260-270

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Rev Clarence Musgrave  
and his wife Joan  
were our mission partners. 
They  worked at 
St Andrews Church of Scotland Church 
in Jerusalem before they retired in the summer of 2006.

No 31 10 March 2001
No 32 17 March 2001

No 33 24 March 2001
No 34 31 March 2001

No 35 8 April 2001
No 36 15 April 2001

Easter Letter

 

Easter Letter

Dear folks,
Below is a letter that I have sent out by ordinary mail to quite a number of folk who sent us cards at Easter time. When I was getting to one card, where I knew there was an e-mail address, I thought, why not send it to all whose address I have! Big - headed.
If you have already heard about it, seen it or whatever, you can use the delete button, or the WPB - or write back and say that your address is changed!
I hope you are all well.
God bless,
Clarence Musgrave.

19 April, 2001


Dear friends,

Now that the special services for Holy Week and Easter are over, I am spending a day trying to answer all those who were so thoughtful and kind as to send us greetings for Easter, with letters and cards. I thought that I would write a sort of Circular Letter, and in this way let you all share in what we did, and what we felt. I hope you do not mind this rather impersonal approach, but hopefully it will at least mean that I can get in touch with all of you while Easter is still relatively fresh in our minds.

Also, some of you who receive our personal Circular Letter by e-mail may well have already received much of this information. In that case, there is always the WPB!

In the life of the congregation, there were some special services, but being a relative new-come to the church scene in Jerusalem, and being a relatively small congregation, St Andrew’s found an already established programme, and so for the most part shares in services arranged in other churches. However, we did do our own thing, to some extent.

For Lent, in response to a request/suggestion from one of our members who is shortly to be ordained in the United Presbyterian Church of the USA, it was agreed to hold a series of evening services following the tradition of worship found at Taizé. As many of you will know, this involves singing some short hymns/songs of one or two lines several times, time for readings, and time for silence. We shared in the 5 services that we had with the English-speaking community attached to the Lutheran Church of the Redeemer in the Old City. Services were held alternately at St Andrew’s and the Lutheran church, at 1900 hours on the first 5 Sundays of Lent. Congregation numbers varied for 25 up to 40, and it was interesting that there were representatives from several different denominations. Missing were any people from the older traditional Orthodox churches, and the evangelical churches. Few Palestinian Christians attended, and even fewer Messianic Jewish Christians.

However, the services provided a sort of oasis of quiet in what was a busy time for most people. All who came appreciated the calmness, even if it only lasted for an hour, and we were then confronted by the harsh realities of life here in the struggle between Israeli and Palestinian. ( Now that Lent and Easter are past, we will continue with these services on the first Sunday evening of the month, at St Andrew’s, and hope that they can develop into a sort of outreach to the wider Christian community.)

Palm Sunday provided us with the same sort of opportunity that you will all have had in your own congregations, to recall the entry of Jesus into Jerusalem, and the start of the week that led to Good Friday and Easter Sunday. In our service, we distributed small palm crosses to everyone there, and invited them to take some to send to their friends and families. The afternoon witnesses a procession down the Mount of Olives to the Church of St Anne, in the Old City, which is on the site of Bethesda, where Jesus healed the person who had been sitting at the side of the pool for years. Some of us walked up to the top of the hill – about a smart 45 minutes’ walk – and then meandered down with the procession. Many folk carried palm branches, different groups sang in their own languages, and there was a sort of happy atmosphere that I could well imagine existed on the first Palm Sunday. The one ironic aspect of the whole afternoon was the fairly “heavy” police presence, - armed, with riot sticks and helmets - I am not too sure of their role – to protect us? to prevent us being troublesome? However, that seems to be standard practice for here.

Few special services are organised for the Monday, Tuesday or Wednesday of Holy Week. However, on the Monday evening, the Sisters in the Convent of Ecce Homo (the Convent at the place where Pilate is reputed to have offered the crowd the choice between Barabbas or Jesus) had arranged a Taizé service, and some of us went to that. The front of the church has an arch which is reputed to be from the Roman buildings at the time of Christ. The whole place was largely illuminated by candles; there was plenty of time for silence; the singing was subdued; towards the end prayers were said in about 6 or 7 languages, including Gaelic; and it was an important part of the week for us.

Maundy Thursday presents a feast of Services. We chose to go to the Lutheran Church of the Redeemer for a Service of Holy Communion. This was conducted in Arabic, German, English, and Danish – representing the different communities that worship there. Having two sermons, one in Arabic and the other in German, provided time for meditation (some might unkindly call it snoozing!). Communion was shared at 4 different parts of the church, and it was quite moving to see the way in which people of all different nationalities shared together. It was also moving at the end of the service when the prayers for the people of Israel were offered by the German Provost of the Church – who would have thought 50 years ago that one would feel comfortable with a German minister not only leading worship, but praying for Jewish people. How times change.

From the service, there was a procession to the Garden of Gethsemane. As those of you who have visited it will recall, it is quite a small place, and there were many folk with the single idea of being there on that Thursday evening – so it was far from peaceful and quiet.

Earlier and later there were services of washing of feet, by Greek Orthodox bishops, by Anglican bishops, by Catholic bishops. We did not think that we would intrude on such occasions this year, so we have that to look forward to next year.

Good Friday started early – up at 0500 hours to get to the start of the Via Dolorosa in the Old City, to join a procession organised by the Anglican Church of St George. It was fascinating to go through the Old City, with the streets deserted, meeting only a few Christian pilgrims making their way along the Via Dolorosa, or just going to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, to pray in it or near it, if it was not open. Our group eventually numbered about 200, and as we made our way from one Station to the next, we often sang hymns – familiar ones from CH3, even if they were set to different tunes in the tradition of the Anglican church! AS it was so quiet, and before the city had really come to life with all the bustle, and intrusion that that would have brought, it meant that we had quite a “devotional” progression from one place to the other. When it was all over, we then went with Rizek and Alice Abusharr (the Session Clerk and his wife) and had some humus from breakfast at a small, very unpretentious, snack bar which had delicious humus. Not quite our normal breakfast.

There was a whole smorgasbord of services across the city, but we contented ourselves this year with getting ready for the short walk that we would take with the congregation in the afternoon, from St Andrew’s to the Cenacle – the possible site of the Last Supper – and on to St Peter’s in Gallicantu – the church built at the site of Caiaphas’ house. There were perhaps 20 of us who walked, and on the roof of the Cenacle we had a short service. On to Gallicantu, where we had another service. Beside where we were sitting is a sort of flight of steps cut into the rock – and said to be one of the more likely authentic parts of Jerusalem, and quite possibly steps on which Jesus walked on his way to and from Gethsemane. Making it all the more poignant were the cascades of pink and red geraniums (or should it be gerania? or even pelagonia?) It is hard to place in such a beautiful context the events of the night of the arrest of Jesus. Back at the Church, we completed our day with a short service – perhaps by now we were 30.

Abandoning the city on Saturday, Joan and I went to a village near Nazareth – about 2 hours’ drive away – in terms of distance, much the same as from Edinburgh to Aberdeen – where we had lunch with Bill and Maha Campbell. Bill is a GP whose practice is beside Murrayfield Church in Edinburgh, and his wife, Maha, comes from the Galilee. They were out for a short visit, so we went to see them, thus missing all the special services in Jerusalem.

Easter Sunday again had a wake-up call at 0500 hours, to enable us to get down to the Hospice, and set out some chairs on the car park overlooking the Old City. About 30 folk turned up for the sun rise service at 0600 hours. It was chilly, and a bit of cloud in the East. I thought that we would not see the sun, but – how little faith I had. Sure enough, shortly after it had risen about the horizon, it burned of the cloud and there it was – the same sort of sight that Jesus may have seen on the day of his Resurrection, the same sort of sight as the women and the disciples may have seen when they went to the tomb. The sun about the Mount of Olives. Seeing the sun rise was not a new thing for us, but somehow seeing it rise over the Mount of Olives, on Easter Sunday, was different.

After the service, there was breakfast in the Hospice, which Emma and her staff had all organised. Then it was home to get ready for the 1000 hours service. In it, we had 3 glass bowls full of brightly coloured hard-boiled eggs. Rizek told us about them – the bright colours representing the colours of the rainbow, and the promise of God to Noah, that there would be life after the Flood – and then each one cracking his or her egg on that of a neighbour, symbolising the cracking open of the tomb. We share Communion and then at the end of the service, in a whole variety of languages, reminded ourselves that Christ is risen.

In the evening, we went down with a couple from the congregation to the village of Abu Ghosh – about 7 miles from the city. This is one of the places which claims to be Emmaus, the place referred to in Luke’s Gospel, chapter 24. We ended the day there listening to the monks and nuns singing Vespers in the Church there – an almost mystical experience. After the service, it was back out into the noise of the world and up the dual-carriage way into the city.

It has been different. Different in being places associated with Christ. Different in being part of a multi-cultural society here, with Jews celebrating their Pesach (Passover), Muslims with their ordinary routine at this time; the stillness and silence of the Ecce Homo Monday evening service taking place at the same time as the Call to Prayer at the Mosque 25 metres away. But above all, the reality of the conflict about power, about land, about justice, - I am sure you all have your own adjectives to describe what is happening here. The fact that Christians from all over the world found it possible to get to Jerusalem, whereas Christians from 5 mils away, in Bethlehem, were not able to come. In a sense, it gave to me a new understanding of “Incarnation “ – the Word coming into the world, with its own routines, its own priorities, and its own agendas. These went on in Jerusalem 2,000 years ago, regardless of the agenda and priorities of Christ. They went on in Jerusalem this year.

Anyway, enough of sermonising. Thank you all for remembering us. We will send this letter to church correspondents, and also to those who sent us cards as individuals. You may even hear the news several times in several different ways. Apologies.


With our prayers and best wishes to you all.


God bless you
and love from

Joan and Clarence

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Circular Letter No 36 :
Diary of Holy Week. 15th April 2001.

Palm Sunday.

The whole new dimension added to worship, to the reading of the Bible narratives, when you are able to go to the places that you have read about – walk down the Mount of Olives and past the Garden of Gethsemane, into the Old City, to the area around the Pool of Bethesda.

Monday – Wednesday.

There are almost no special services listed in the programmes of the various denominations that are prepared for Holy week. Some of us from St Andrew’s joined some friends from the Ecce Homo Convent at a Taize service in their church on Monday evening. The congregation was about 50. The time was 2000 hours. Outside the city was resuming its character of a place where people actually live. On our way to and from the church we passed shops that were closing, children playing in the space left by shoppers and visitors, some people beginning to clean up the rubbish of the day, men walking up and down the streets, talking and looking forward to the evening meal that the women were preparing for them at home.

Reflecting the fact that the church is in the Muslim Quarter, opposite there is a small Mosque, and part way through one of our periods of silence starts the recorded Call to Prayer of the muezzin. There is a slope outside which provides an excellent place for kids with their scooters – so our silence is punctuated with the noise of someone else’s faith, and the normal play of normal children.

Inside the church, there is an arch at the front, which, it is said, goes back to Roman times. On ledges in the arch, and all around the front, are candles. Most of the light comes from candles, made the more effective by the dark outside which is lightened only by infrequent street lights. Simple singing, simple reading, simple praying, and silence. It could have been a Christian community at worship anywhere – except that we were near where Christ was finally committed to his execution, and our prayers were said in 6 languages.

Tuesday – Wednesday. Normal life goes on, despite the fact that it is Holy Week. And so, for us, there were visits, there was the preparation of Services for Good Friday and Easter Sunday, and all the mundane things that make up everyday life wherever you happen to be.

Maundy Thursday.

Special services take place all over the city. TV shows some of them on the News – the elaborate ritual of the Greek Orthodox Foot-washing service was shown on TV and pictured in the press. I decided to attend a service in the Church of the Redeemer, which is the main Lutheran Church in the Old City. It started at 1630 hours, and I thought that I would take the car to the edge of the City, park, and walk in to the church. Here comes a digression.

Digression – We are still in the week of Pesach – celebration of Passover. I had not realised that this was a public holiday week – schools closed, government offices closed, post offices working half time – and people everywhere. The parks in the vicinity of the Hospice have been flooded with people, mostly in family groups, and later in the afternoon there are chairs and tables out with picnics. It has been a real education to see all this family activity, and to see the Jewish part of the population on holiday. Traffic has accordingly been lighter, noise has been reduced, and all in all it has been almost a festive time. Of course, if you read the papers, and watch the news, it is clear that there are other places where things are almost at the complete opposite of the spectrum. Closure, fighting, killing, houses being destroyed, - as in the first Holy Week, there is no lack of “man’s inhumanity to man.”

Anyway, the reason for the digression is that on Thursday, with the town so full, and hundreds of Jewish people streaming into the Old City, there was little chance of finding a parking space. By someone’s good grace, I did find a place, and got to the church on time.

The Service was restrained. The Lutheran Church has a ministry to people who speak Arabic, German, Finnish, Danish, and English. So all of the languages were included in the service, but done in such a way that no-one could feel excluded at those times when they were unable to understand the speaker. The music was mostly traditional. As the climax of the service, there was a celebration of Holy Communion – again in a mixture of English, Arabic and German. I found it quite fascinating that, in the prayers after the sharing of Communion, the prayers for the people of Israel were led by the Probst of the Church, the Rev Ronecker. It was a German who was leading the prayers of everyone for the people of Israel and Palestine. Who would have thought 50 years ago that such a thing would have been possible?

After the service, instead of joining the others in going to the Garden of Gethsemane, Joan and I went to a supper party in Beit Jala. It was the first time for 25 years or more that we had done something like that on Maundy Thursday and it felt odd. It was a sort of farewell for a member of the Sunbula Council. Our host and hostess were a Palestinian and an American who had met 25 years ago when they were both in graduate school in North Carolina. It was a far cry from some of the houses that we have been in – they are rather wealthy – but it was just the same as some of the other houses in Beit Jala – it had been hit by shell fire from the IDF in Gilo. And just like the others, there is a problem of employment and business. Hanni, our host, employs many people in the tourist industry, but right now with so few tourists, difficult decisions have to be made about the level of staff he can continue to pay. George, another of the guests, is a very wealthy Palestinian businessman with a factory in Bethlehem. To get his raw materials, he has to use Israeli trucks, as he cannot get his own out of the West Bank. They have to use back roads, and from time to time be sparing with the truth when they are stopped by the IDF. Instead of the 150 people he had hoped to employ, he is only able to employ 85. One of the economic effects of the Closure.

Coming back to Jerusalem, through the check point, I was asked by an ever-so-young soldier where I worked. The reply of “the Scottish Church” produced the desired effect and we were on our way. I sometimes marvel at how well the Scottish church is known by the ordinary IDF member!

Good Friday.

The pilgrimage of the Anglican and Lutheran Churches along the Via Dolorosa started at 0600 hours from St George’s church. We joined it about 0630 at the First Station of the Cross.

As we made our way into the Old City about 0615 hours, the sun was rising and shining across the Hinnom Valley to St Andrew’s. The atmosphere was so clear that we could easily see the hills of Jordan to the East. One of the oddities of life here is that the two “administrations” do not always get their changes to summer time to happen at the same time. So last week the Israelis changed, and we are now back to 2 hours ahead of UK. The Palestinians, on the other hand only change this weekend. So, leaving home at 0600 hours, we get into the Old City at 0515 hours!

It is a wee bit early for much activity – and so gave us yet another view of the Old City. Deserted streets, apart from Christian Pilgrims making their way in groups along the Via Dolorosa. Plenty of cats about. Some workmen beginning to get garbage ready for others to pick up later. (Joan reminds me that there were also sparrows and pigeons galore.!) We stop at each Station of the Cross until we approach the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. It does not open until mid-morning, so we complete our walk at the Church of the Redeemer, which is only a few metres from the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. ( I was going to say, “only a stone’s throw,..” but that somehow is a phrase that we tend not to use at present.!)

Impressions : of the city slowly coming awake to a new day; of the sunlight striking the tops of the buildings; of aged nuns making their way to the door of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre to pray; of the noise of people opening shops; of the smell of freshly baked bread overcoming the smell of the cats; of people on their way to work having to negotiate a way through the 200 or so people in our group; of the birds singing so loudly at one place that there were making it hard for the speaker to be heard; of being watched by the armed guard of a Jewish settlement located on the rooftops of Arab houses, which is surrounded by a chain-link fence and barbed wire; of praying for the women of Jerusalem just minutes after a couple of older women who had sat down to get ready to sell their vegetables and herbs had been rudely and forcefully moved on by the police; of a procession of Ethiopian church leaders and members passing us, just at the place from which the women had been ejected; of sharing in prayers with many nationalities and denominations; of the presence of the Police, armed as usual, and wondering what they made of all these Christians stopping to read, to pray and to sing.

We had completed our walk by 0800 hours, and with Rizek and Alice we went to have breakfast at a very unprepossessing Arab “snackery’ where we were the first sit-down customers of the day. Breakfast was humus, bread, and some tomatoes and pickles.

At 1500 hours, about 25 of us left St Andrew’s to walk across to the Cenacle (Upper Room) and then on to the church of St Peter in Gallicantu. At each place we stopped for a reading, a prayer and a hymn. The Cenacle was tightly closed, so we went on to the roof, and in the middle of what is a Jewish community, had our short service. From thje roof there was a panoramic view across to the Mount of Olives. Then on to St Peter in Gallicantu. We were beside what could well be one of the few genuine places where Jesus might well have walked – steps down into the Kidron Valley. The Church was shining in the afternoon sun, with bright, clean, new stones. The flowers were cascading down the walls – pink and red geraniums. And this was the place where it is thought Jesus spent his last night before the crucifixion. From it, one could see the Garden of Gethsemane, the Temple Mount, and the Mount of Olives. The sun was shining, the sky was blue, and it was hot – quite possibly the sort of afternoon on which the Crucifixion took place. After our short service there, we went back to the church, where we concluded the afternoon with another short service, - a few hymns and readings. So came the end of Good Friday services.

We went to look over the city from the Peace Promenade, first going to the extension that is being built on to it. There we met the watchman – and had a chat. A third-generation Israeli, he has three sons, and 4 daughters. The girls are all married here in Israel – the sons away, and not likely to come home. We talked a bit as we looked down to Jericho, the Jordan Valley and across to the hills of Jordan. He might have been to Jericho 5 years ago, he said, but not now – too dangerous. As we left, he spoke of Shalom – feelingly – but one sensed more in hope that with any real sense that it would come.

At the end of the day, of the week, it is so difficult to make sense of it all. Yet I think that one thing being here has done is to anchor it all in the real world. The nearest that I have ever come to this sort of feeling was being at a performance of a Mystery Play in the Assembly Hall in Edinburgh some years ago, where the people on duty to perform crucifixions that day, got on with their work while others went about their daily routine. The crucifixion was a mundane event, almost a routine event, in the life of a city that had other things on its mind – the celebration of the Passover being perhaps uppermost. So, today, as we went about our remembering, others went about their work, or for those on holiday, their play.

Time for bed. Tomorrow we go to a village near Nazareth to meet a doctor and his wife from Murrayfield – we are going to the home of Maha Campbell. The “village” – Shefar’am - has a population of about 20,000 people.

Then Sunday – 0600 hours Sunrise service, 0700 hours breakfast, 1000 hours Communion.

Just for the record, while we have been being “holy” there have been the normal number of shootings and killings, and the usual rhetoric of the politicians, each blaming the other for the violence. Every service we have been has made reference to “the situation”. Most of the conversation on Thursday evening at supper was about “the situation”. Nothing happens without “the situation” being mentioned.


We wish you all every blessing and happiness at Easter.

Bye for now.

God bless.

Love. Joan and Clarence

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Circular Letter No 35
8th April 2001

A sort of kaleidoscope as we look back over the week.

To start with today, which is uppermost in one’s mind.

There was a smaller congregation this morning than last week – no tourists. (Last week at 0955 a group of 25 Americans arrived, followed a bit later by a smaller group of Scots – so we had a congregation of over 80 – it felt like Christmas!) With the children today, we talked about flags, and how we recognised our countries etc. Then talked about the “flag” for Jesus today – Palms – and we had small palm crosses to be given to every person there. That led on, in the rest of the service, to think about Palm Sunday, which is what I imagine you were all doing in your own congregations today. Again, that led on quite naturally to this afternoon.

There was the customary Walk down the Mount of Olives to the Church of St Anne, just inside the City Walls, where there were some prayers, and then a sort of hymn sing and traditional dancing. Some of us left the Hospice about 1345 hours to walk to the top of the Mount of Olives, to meet with the main procession which was due to set off about 1500 hours. Naturally we got there with lots of time to spare – and in surprisingly good shape.

Around about 1500 hours, the procession came over the hill behind the Pater Noster Church, Catholic Scouts leading, flags being carried, palms being waved. [At 0400 hours this morning it had been raining heavily, but by mid afternoon the sun was shining from an almost clear blue sky]. The procession had been preceded by a “procession” of Israeli armed police – guns and flak jackets. I suppose that if anything had gone wrong, they would have been blamed for not being there, but it did seem a bit incongruous to have this sort of presence for a group of Christian marchers. However, maybe there were people who might not have welcomed us, if they had been able to get to us.

The road along from the Pater Noster Church to the top of the steps and the narrow road down the Mount of Olives was full of people, laughing, talking, singing. I was a bit put out at first, till I realised that in essence this was commemorating a fairly happy and noisy event itself. Behind us were Latin Americans singing in Spanish. Ahead were Koreans with their own loudspeaker to keep them in time with their prayers. Americans, Europeans, Africans - I met the Acting Head of the Ghanaian Mission, and a couple of people with her – she was from Kumasi, one of the others from Navrongo where there is the mud Cathedral which we visited. At the road side, a group of Indonesians, then a banner announcing the Jerusalem Filipino contingent, and so on. What a wonderful horde of people. Down at St Anne’s, the Latin Patriarch read a statement in Arabic and English, there were one or two prayers, and a group of young trainees from the Latin Seminary in Beit Jala. They had their loud speakers, keyboard etc. They sang, and people danced some traditional dancing. It put a whole new complexion on the “celebration” of Palm Sunday.

When it was time to leave, we walked back through the Old City, up part of the Via Dolorosa, where there were smiles everywhere, and then along the road that leads through the Muslim Quarter to the Western or Wailing Wall. There were not many people around, but as it was the second day of the Pesach holiday, there were families, kids in their good clothes, and a fairly happy atmosphere also. We sat in the square for a short while, just to take in what Jewish people were doing, and then home to the Hospice. It was as we were in the Square that we realised Joan still had her Palm Cross pinned to her sweater! – explained some of the looks that we got, as I was also wearing my clerical collar.

It was the first major Feast Day for Jerusalem that we have had here (Christmas was a Feast Day for Bethlehem) and it has been different. I did not initially think of it as a happy day, but more of a sombre time at the beginning of Holy Week. However, today, to see the smiles on the faces of the local church people, to watch the Palestinian Christians leading the rest of us in celebration, was to get a new perspective on it all.

Tomorrow, there is a Taize Service in the Ecce Homo Church, near the beginning of the Via Dolorosa. Thursday we will share in a service in the Lutheran Church at 1630, which culminates in a walk to Gethsemane. Friday at 0600 hours there is a Walk along the Via Dolorosa led by St George’s, and in the afternoon a shorter walk from St Andrew’s to St Peter in Gallicantu, where it is said Peter denied Christ, and from there on to the Cenacle – Upper Room – where the Last Supper may have taken place, and back to the church for a short service. Sunday, sunrise service at 0600 hours at St Andrew’s, celebration breakfast in the Hospice, and Communion at 1000 hours. Then collapse!

But back to yesterday – Saturday. This was the beginning of the Celebration of Pesach for the Jewish people – the Passover. It is a week-long Festival, but starts with 2 day’s of holiday. Preparation for it is quite intense – in two ways. First of all, to mark the Exodus from Egypt, and the fact that they were not to have any leaven in their houses, people here have to do a major house clean – spring clean – to make sure that there are no crumbs or traces of yeast in their houses. In the stores, ordinary bread disappears, to be replaced with Matzah – wafers baked with special leaven free “flour”. So, preparations to ensure freedom from leaven.

Secondly, there had to be the preparations for the Seder – feast/meal to mark the Passover. (These preparations were complicated this year by the fact that Pesach followed Shabbat – and so preparations, cooking etc – all had to be complete before Shabbat) This is a time of Remembrance, a time for families to get together and share in a religious and social occasion – and so there has to be both special Seder food, and “party” food. Joan and I were invited to share the Seder with his family by Robert Brack, the Accountant for the Church of Scotland here in Israel, who is a Jewish American who has been in Israel for the past 25 or more years. To help us prepare for the evening, Robert lent us copies of a book called The Family Haggadah – the text in Hebrew for the Seder, with (thankfully) an English translation. So we had a chance to read over parts of it before yesterday evening.

Here goes – if you feel you are not into Seders – go to the next section!

There is a Seder plate : on it are :

MAROR and CHAZERES (bitter herbs) For MAROR many people use grated horseradish. For CHAZARES people use romaine lettuce – either whole leaves of stalks.

CHAROSES which is a mixture of grated apples, nuts, other fruit, cinnamon and spices, mixed with red wine. This has the appearance of mortar to symbolise the lot of the Hebrew slaves whose lives were embittered by hard labour with brick and mortar. (It actually looks unattractive, but tastes better)

Z’ROA (Roasted bone) and BEITZAH (Roasted Egg) The roasted bone (we had a piece of a chicken, but it is often a piece of shank bone) represents the sacrifice that was made in the Temple at Passover time. The roasted egg is a symbol of mourning to remind people of the destruction of the Temple.

KARPAS is a vegetable (in our case parsley) as the final item – this is eaten at one stage in the meal having been dipped into salted water. The salt water is to remind people of the tears that the Jewish people shed in Egypt, and is used at a couple of stages in the meal.

The whole meal has 15 sections, much of which at the beginning is a sort of recitation of the Biblical account of the journey to Egypt, the flourishing of the Jewish people there, the eventual reaction of the Pharaohs, the Plagues, the Passover and the Exodus.

It is a story with which Christians will be familiar, but in the context of a Jewish family, it took on an added significance. It would be easy to be critical of the actual “performance” of the reading – the sort of criticism that Presbyterians would often make about the worship of those who use a liturgy or written prayers - ( that they can be recited in a rote fashion without any sort of understanding or feeling) –and certainly the readings were long, and there was some desire to complete them!. Yet, it did give an opportunity for some family discussion about the whole event, and it did set in context the current Israeli thinking about their own situation. One of the sons had just completed his month’s initial training before commencing his full time army service. In a week or two, I could perhaps meet him at a road-block.

I tried to think of a similar sort of tradition elsewhere, and the only one that I could come up with was the celebration by the Orange Order of the Battle of the Boyne. Many are critical of the way in which they – the Orangemen – dredge up feelings from history which the majority of the community now no longer feel relevant. For most Protestants, the Catholic church is now a sister church, and we enjoy worshipping with them, even though we do not agree with all their doctrines. I remember seeing a parade of youngsters in Belfast some years ago, led by a flute band, and the kids were singing anti-Catholic songs. From one perspective they were preserving their culture, from another perspective they were preserving bigotry. In the Seder there is the repetition of the miracle of the Exodus, God rescuing the Jews from Egypt. There is a remembrance of the real troubles that the Jewish people have endured – none more so than the Holocaust – and the prayer that God will protect them against every opponent. This is the land which they have been given, and this is the land which they have to protect, and in which they will see the Messiah come..


I would have three comments upon the Seder :

First, I could have no doubt about the importance of this celebration and this event for the life of the Jewish people. It is central to their self-understanding, and gives a Biblical foundation to their understanding of the need to preserve the present State of Israel.

Second, from my (Christian) perspective, it is a celebration looking forward to a Messiah, - a celebration that was somehow incomplete. It was interesting to hear recited several of the prayers that are used in the Christian Liturgy of Holy Communion – but somehow the Celebration of Communion seems more complete in that it is to do with a Messiah who has come.

Third, with the (very understandable ) emphasis on the salvation of the Jews by God, the gift by Him to them of this land, and their understanding of their special role and place, there was no apparent room for accepting the legitimacy of the claims of other inhabitants of this land to their rightful place in it. I find it difficult to see how Israel can accommodate itself to the pluralist society within its borders – where you have people of the Jewish, Muslim and Christian faiths, as well as Jews and Arabs, all living here – when the basis of the Seder seems to me, at least, to be exclusive. The Seder throws added light on the debate which is going on in the Jewish community about the exchange of Land for Peace. It is quite understandable for the religious people to say that it is impossible for them to give away the gift that God gave to them.


Monday morning.

Last night, I had a quick trip to the airport to pick up a member of the congregation returning from the UK. Yet again an illustration of the very diverse people who now live here – the majority of flights at the time we were there were arriving from Eastern Europe, and the language that was most obvious was Russian. What do they all make of the Seder, I wonder.


One final picture of the week – Saturday mid-day we had gone to Ramallah to pick up a painting that Joan had bought – as if we do not have enough! – but we think that this is one which Murrayfield has given to us, though they do not yet know it. There are now three potential IDF checkpoints going to Ramallah. They all have one thing in common – large concrete blocks around which traffic has to twist in single file. At none of them on Saturday was any checking being done, but there were delays at two, just because two lanes of traffic had to merge into one. At the second there was a huge traffic jam, which would have taken hours to clear. It was a combination of the single file traffic; traffic wanting to cross to a side road at one place, across the flow of vehicles from Jerusalem; and at a third place traffic wanting to join the Jerusalem bound vehicles, crossing over the Ramallah bound traffic. The few IDF soldiers visible just stood and talked – why should they worry about chaos when it had been caused for them by the drivers? It was a classic illustration of the pressures that even an “open” closure can put upon people, and an further nail in the coffin of any rapprochement between Israeli and Palestinian. We were glad to be going to Jerusalem – it only took us 40 minutes to cover a mile.

One wonders if it would be possible to have Palm Sunday now. Would Jesus have been able to get from Galilee to Jerusalem? Would he have had an ID card to get into the city?


Greetings from the competing claims of Pesach, of Palm Sunday and Holy Week.

God bless.

Love.

Joan and Clarence.


Circular Letter No 34

31st March 2001

Where to start after a week like the one we have had here – this morning the footage on TV news of the shootings, stone throwing, confrontations yesterday – all across the country.

Friday morning. Which colour would you leave out of a rainbow? Answers in not more than 100 words, giving your reasons. This was Friday morning at 0815 hours at Tabeetha school – the secondary/primary school run by the Church of Scotland in Jaffa, next door to Tel Aviv. I am invited to go down a couple of times a term to speak at the secondary school assembly. The school community is multi-racial, multi-faith, and the “mission statement” of the school speaks about giving everyone their value, regardless of race or religion. Not surprisingly, no colour was chosen, and we went on to talk about how each colour needs the other to make up the whole – you can guess the attempted application of the story to our local situation.

Friday evening. When your name is Smith, you are likely to encounter quite a few people with the same name in the course of life. When your name is Musgrave, there are likely to be fewer such encounters. One encounter took place last night. It was with two women, originally from Barbados, now living in Jerusalem were fellow guests at supper in the home of people who worship from time to time at St Andrew’s. Of their 4 grandparents, 3 were Jewish, one was Gentile with an Irish background – and that was a Musgrave, born in Tennessee. Interestingly, a photograph of their father showed someone not unlike other Musgraves much closer to home. They are what are called “Messianic Jews” “Messianic believers” or plain “believers”.

Much of the evening was spent listening to our hosts and the other two Musgraves speaking about the Fellowship to which they belong, and the way in where there are many “hidden or secret” believers. When I asked about their relationship as Jewish believers -–Jewish Christians – to the rest of the Church, and in particular to the Palestinian Christians, - one of them denied that there were such people as Palestinians. As there is no State of Palestine, there can be no Palestinians – there are Arabs. If this is the understanding and perception among those who profess to be fellow believers with Palestinian Christians, what hope is there for the rest of the community?

Thursday evening. In our church Bible Study we were looking at the Beatitudes – all sorts of different translations for the word “blessed” – and ending up with an understanding that it was something to do with a relationship with God, and with the people around us. We then looked at the two verses which speak about “mourning” and “peacemaking”. “Mourning” was seen as an emotive word – there were differences of opinion as to whether it was limited to describing emotions when someone has been bereaved, or if it was legitimate to use it to describe feelings when people are made redundant, or are divorced. Then we were asked if it was legitimate to use it to describe feelings when people saw their olive orchards being uprooted? I doubt that the people whom we met on Friday would have appreciated that question – but perhaps I am wrong.

Mourning certainly was that word which was applied in many, many situations this past week – perhaps none more so than at the killing of the wee baby in Hebron by a Palestinian sniper. It is difficult for the protagonists to find appropriate words to describe their reactions to this sort of an event. I suspect that there are few who would feel other than pain, anguish, remorse, despair etc. Yet, to be able to say that can also be difficult. We received a Newsletter from a young American Presbyterian minister living in the north of the West Bank, and he put it this way :

No doubt you heard about the tragic shooting that happened March 26. Ten month-old Shalhevet Pass, infant daughter of Israeli settlers, was murdered by a sniper from the Palestinian Abu Sneineh neighborhood of Hebron. The news broke our hearts, reminding us of the 100+ children who have been killed in the last seven months. We recall 18 month-old Sara Hasan Abdelhaq, who died near Nablus on October 2 of a gunshot to the head, murdered by Israeli settlers as her father was driving her to the doctor. Three year-old Maram Hasuna died of tear gas inhalation on November 23. On March 2, nine year-old Obei Darraj was in his home in El-Bireh when bullets from a nearby settlement fatally wounded him in the chest. Ten year-old Muhammad Nassar was abducted and later found beaten to death on March 17. A sniper with a silencer murdered 15 year-old Husam Al Disi on February 26 in Qalandia refugee camp. These are but a few of the endless stream of young casualties that have become "business as usual" during the past seven months. Little Shalhevet joins the tragic company of so many other children, who lost their lives to the grief of their parents and all of us.

Unfortunately, we fear that the lesson that most people around the world will take from Shalhevet's death is not one pointing to the tragic results of the conflict. People will not think also of the scores of other dead children, almost exclusively Palestinian. Rather, we fear, it will be used to demonstrate the brutality and cruelty of the "falafel brains" (a poignant nickname offered by Jerusalem radio) who control the Palestinian Authority. But the truth is that the Palestinian who murdered that girl was imitating what his Israeli oppressors have been doing on a much grander scale - but with no less brutality, cruelty, or terror.

This is the truth which those who seek a just peace in this area must face. We cannot stand with one side against the other, because we risk becoming apologists for terrorism - whether done by Palestinians in black kaffiyes or Israelis in green uniforms. Instead, we must continue to shape a vision which is the only hope of redemption

You see the problem. The Jewish apologist will speak of the brutality of the Palestinians. The Palestinian apologist will speak of the much more frequent killings by Israelis - How can they learn to speak to, or with, each other? How can they learn to share each other’s griefs – and then perhaps to share in some form of understanding, and in some form of accommodation.

It used to be that outsiders might nudge leaders here to some form of limited contact. However, in a week when such “pressure” might have been helpful, there was no-one to offer it. The UN is persona non grata to the Israelis – the US in increasingly seen as an extension of the Israeli government by the Palestinians. The UN was prevented from passing a resolution which was anathema to the Israelis, by a veto of the US. Around the same time that the US President says that the Kyoto accord will not be implemented as he will do nothing to harm or hurt, what he perceives to be the interests of the US people – President Bush says that Israel is right in insisting that the Palestinian Authority must stop the violence. (Friday’s fatalities’ score – Israel 0, Palestine 6) Why should the Palestinians have any regard for what the Americans say? And so there is the impotence of the UN – the non-involvement of Europe, and the partiality of the US.

Our Jewish supper companions last night remarked, in an offhand way, that of course the whole world hates the Jews. It is taken for granted, that Israel is on its own, apart from the US.

Our Palestinian contacts wonder why it is so important to enforce UN resolutions on Iraq, while ignoring the enforcement of UN resolutions on Israel, or why it is so important to put NATO troops in a buffer zone in Macedonia, while allowing the Israeli forces free rein, or perhaps that should be “reign”, over the occupied territories.

Yet, even as I write, I realise that it is wrong to speak of “Israelis” and “Palestinians”, just as it is wrong to speak of “Christians” as if all Israelis and all Palestinians agreed with all that is being done in their names, and as if there was one, united Christian approach to the situation.

One of the sadnesses here is that there is a fairly clear divide among the Christians, between those on the one hand who are sympathetic to the Palestinian cause, and those on the other who are sympathetic to the Zionist cause. There is not a great deal of dialogue between them. The following is part of the Liturgy to be used today at a special service organised by Sabeel, the Ecumenical Liberation Theology here in Jerusalem.

Special Prayers:
The Israeli Occupation is the main source of oppression and suffering. Once the occupation is over the injustice will cease. We pray for the removal of the crosses that Palestinians bear:

The cross of siege and military checkpoints that separate loved-ones and obstruct social-interaction... Kyrie Eleison

The cross of unemployment, hunger, home demolition and dispossession... Kyrie Eleison

The cross of environmental pollution and the uprooting of trees... Kyrie Eleison

The cross of emigration, frustration and apathy...Kyrie Eleison

The cross of detention, imprisonment, bloodshed and the loss of innocent lives... Kyrie Eleison

The cross of violation of the rights to education, worship and medical care... Kyrie Eleison

(Young people will carry these crosses and place them at the foot of the altar around a larger cross that represents the Occupation while these injustices are lifted up to God Almighty)

In the context of this service, it might be hard to include the crosses that Israelis also bear, but it might be one way in which to open up channels of communication – to pray publicly for those in the Israeli community who speak, write and act to oppose the policies of their government.

Within the Palestinian people there is a real debate over the policy of violence – be it suicide bombers, car bombs, snipers, stone throwing, or whatever. This was shown this past week in some of the marches organised by people who did not want to use violence. At the moment, it would seem that their voices are not able to make themselves heard about the clatter of the guns and the stones.

Within the Israeli community, there are those who have very real doubts as to where the present policy will lead. Often such doubts are expressed in Biblical terms. One very thought-provoking article this past week was about the Plagues in Egypt in the Book of Exodus. The writer was identifying the Palestinians with the Jews in Egypt, the Israeli government with Pharaoh, and ended with the question as to whether it would only be when the Jews lose their first-born that they will be forced to allow people to be free.

There are significant Jewish writers who express such opinions – there are Jewish organisations monitoring the use of force, the use of torture, and trying to ensure that people who are arrested have legal representation – and so on.

If you ever get around to praying about this sad land – pray for all the different groups within each part of the population.

On a personal note, thanks to all who sent cards and gifts for a certain birthday this past week. One gift was a Recorder – now Joan is being dinned about the ears as I try to learn to play it = so far have come up with Jingle Bells.

Saturday morning – Joan is painting – cyclamens today. After this, I will have a bit of work to do at the office, and then hopefully do nothing, as I try to get rid of a cold.

Bye for now. God bless.

Love from Joan and Clarence.


P S Joan says I should tell you about the countryside. Down by Tel Aviv, hay has been cut, fields of grain harvested, and the golden stubble makes a bright patchwork, vines are well into leaf, as are many of the orchards – nearer Jerusalem things are a bit later. The hill behind the Church and Hospice is beginning to become brown, the anemones are dying, while the wisteria is coming into blossom. For some weeks there has been the deep pink blossom of the Judas trees, and now the Oleander is beginning to come into flower. Masses of Mimosa, says Joan. So, there is still quite a lot of colour about, even if there has not been much rain for a while. This past week has again been unseasonably hot – but today there is a bit of cloud and it is cooler.


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Circular Letter No 33

24th March 2001

[Family News : Vivienne left at the beginning of the week – got home safely, and has been doing a bit of teaching this week. Before she left she had had a slightly sore throat. She was on the phone this evening – abscess on her tonsils, flu, and all sorts of ailments. Moral of the story – don’t leave here – or perhaps don’t come here in the first place!]

The TV news channels which we see from the UK – BBC and Sky News – have both been carrying fairly extensive coverage of the Foot and Mouth outbreak, and the ravages it is causing across the UK, and now into Ireland, the Netherlands and France. Those who live in rural areas are in our thoughts – and even here there is fear of an outbreak. That prompted the unusual sight during the week of vaccines against Foot and Mouth being delivered by the Israeli Government to the Palestinian Authority. If ever there was an outbreak on either side of the “border” it would be devastating, as this is such a small country.

One of the columns on the front page of Ha’aretz on Friday was headed : Additional Settlement planned for Gush Etzion. Gush Etzion is an area to the south of Bethlehem, in which there are already settlements. Given the universal hostility to settlements on the side of the Palestinians, and the inevitability of some deal having to be done to bring ”peace” it seems a strange time for the Israeli government to be approving a new Settlement. However, what is even more strange, is that the approval has been given by the Planning Board of the Israel Defense Force’s Civil Administration, which is responsible for land use in the west bank. The power of the army is extremely widespread!

But also in the paper, on Thursday, was a headline about the conviction of Major General Yitzak Mordechai, a former army commander in one of the regions of the country, and a former Defence Minister in the Cabinet, of indecent assault. In a leader column, it is written that “for the first time, a senior public figure has been charged and convicted of violence and sexual misconduct” The power of the army can also be challenged.

There is currently being held a Judicial Inquiry in to the shootings in the north of the country in October, when 13 Israeli Arabs were killed by Israeli forces. Whatever the outcome of the Inquiry, that it has taken place says something important about society here. I think that it is only now in the UK that there is an enquiry into the killing of its citizens by the British Army on what has been called Bloody Sunday, during the IRA violence, some 20 or more years ago. There is also an increasing awareness of the need to investigate the killings of Palestinians by soldiers of the IDF. The Chief of Staff has – perhaps belatedly – ordered that all files relating to incidents where Palestinians have been killed have to be passed on to the army’s investigative branch, and from there they may well go to the State Prosecutor. One can only hope that there is thorough investigation and then disciplinary action. The power of the army is not absolute.

I recall the vastly different emotions experienced by the two sides of the Northern Ireland community about the treatment of the two soldiers who shot and killed people when they passed an army check point. It would be interesting to try to collate our own reactions to the incidents in which the British Army was involved and where people were killed in NI, and to the incidents about which we read here in Israel and the West Bank, when the IDF has been involved in incidents where people have been killed.

But enough of that for the moment. What I had thought to do this week was to tell you about yesterday. Various members of the congregation, including Joan and myself, had been invited by Helen Shehadeh to a sort of “opening” of a project at Al Shurooq School in Beit Jala, by the British Consul General. (The complicated diplomatic world here means that the Ambassador of the UK Government to Israel is stationed at the Embassy in Tel Aviv, as the UK does not recognise Jerusalem as the capital of Israel. The UK Consul General, who is the representative of the British Government to the Palestinian Authority, is stationed at the Consulate in East Jerusalem, which is not the capital of the Palestinian area! Work that out.)

Anyway, one of the programmes of the Consulate is called the Small Grants Scheme, and has at its disposal about $700,000 per year. (Small is quite appropriate. Talking with one of the people who comes to the services at St Andrew’s, who is the Head of US AID here, he said that last week he had spent $30,000,000. For him, a small scheme is a minimum of $500,000 from a Palestinian applicant and $2,000,000 from an expatriate group.) Under the Consulate Small Grants Scheme, Helen Shehadeh had been granted $40,000 or so, to get started a programme for blind woman from the West Bank, to introduce them to computers; to try to build up their skills; and to talk about civil rights, etc etc etc. “Empowerment” was a word that was used yesterday. The participants, whose experience and capabilities vary quite widely, come from Jerusalem, the Hebron area, and other parts of the West Bank close to Beit Jala.

You will not be surprised to learn that one of the major obstacles that they have to overcome is the small matter of road blocks and check points. 20 kms along a straight road often has become 40 kms be the back roads that are necessary to avoid the check points.

To run the course, Helen had to get equipment and so there are some computers and printers. To many, the sort of computer programme that we saw yesterday is probably old hat, but for me, to see a blind person typing at the keyboard, and hear a “voice” telling her what she had typed, was something new. The programme that they were using yesterday was in English, but there is a Hebrew and an Arabic version of it. So, standing behind two folk who had a spell at the keyboard, it was fascinating to see what they had typed, to hear the spoken commentary, and to see them correcting their own mistakes.

The three people in the room using this particular programme were, as you might expect, Palestinian. Two came from Jerusalem, and one from Ramallah. The one from Ramallah teaches English in a school for blind children in Ramallah, and she had some access to computers before - but not this sort of system. One of the two from Jerusalem is working on a Teacher Training qualification, having already gained her Master’s Degree from the Hebrew University here in Jerusalem. The third one is a Physiotherapist working at a Clinic close to the Mount of Olives. I don’t know what I expected to find, but I don’t think that I had expected to meet such a rich variety of people, coming to this particular course. Funding is normally to provide the capital cost of a course, but in this case there was also an element of running costs included. Evaluation will take place after 8 months, and then decisions will have to be taken about the future.

Given the pressures that they are facing; given the limitations that there are for people with any sort of handicap; given the difficulty that people will face in getting employment, the only thing one can do is to admire the resilience of people like the three whom we met on Friday. When the whole complicated situation is resolved, one hopes that these three women, and others like them, will be ready to assume positions of leadership. They certainly deserve it.

(If you happen to be in touch with your MP, let him know how significant a role the Small Grants Scheme administered by the Consulate here in Jerusalem is playing. )

On Friday evening, we were invited to dine with a group of church leaders from the Churches Together in Britain and Ireland. (CTBI – how’s that for a forgettable title!) The leader of the group had been out to make preparations for the visit and we had met him in February. The Church of Scotland had two representatives in the group of 13 – the former Moderator of the General Assembly Professor Davidson from Glasgow, and the Rev Sigrid Marten from Glasgow - who is moving to be Minister of Crown Court, London, one of our partner congregations. Part of the group had visited Egypt, another part had been to Lebanon and Syria. A third group had been to Jordan, and had planned to go to Iraq, but visas arrived too late. Then they all met up in Jerusalem last week, and had visits to different parts of the country. I was sitting between an Irish Methodist woman from Dublin, and an Anglican from the West of England, who turned out to be the Bishop of Exeter. The Lutheran Bishop here in Jerusalem, Bishop Munib, was also at the meal, and he it was who spoke to them about the importance of their visit – the fact that they had come, as much as anything else. What they learned, what they felt, we will know when their Report is published. If you would like to hear about them, you could get in touch with Paul Renshaw, e-mail address : paul.renshaw@ctbi.org.uk

Thursday last week saw our Bible Study group meeting in East Jerusalem, just behind the Garden of Eden. That is the name given to a fruit stand on the road to Ramallah, - and the first time that we went to the house, I managed to miss the place twice! We were looking at passages from Isaiah – Chapter 9, Chapter 11 and then Chapter 53. It was interesting on Friday evening, when Bishop Munib was speaking, one of the phrases that he used frequently was “the suffering church”. Certainly, for many here, it would be easier to see suffering as the reality of life, rather than peace and the rule of a heavenly king.

Supper, marmalade making, and chores are ended for the present. On the news, saw the reports about the car bombs in Russia and the fighting in Macedonia. With news like that from all over the world, it is not surprising that the situation here does not get all that much coverage. It is strange that the chief way in which we as humans seem to think we can get our way is to use violence against others. Maybe we need some way in which we can translate Isaiah 53 into thoughts, language, illustrations, - whatever - so that people get a chance to hear it, and give it a chance.

Next week, we hope to get to Kalandia, the Refugee Camp on the way to Ramallah, and also to Idna, the village beyond Hebron. In both places it will be about support for groups of people who have little going for them at present – and seeing if there is any way, as far as Idna goes, that we can do something specific.

This week the weather was scorching hot – almost like the summer. Out came the light clothes, away went the winter sweaters. Then last night it poured, and the rain wakened us; today, it was freezing - we went out for a walk in the late afternoon – sweaters, anoraks, and all that we could reasonably wear!

More next week.

Bye for now. God bless.

Joan and Clarence.

A monologue is a conversation between two people like a boy and girl friend.

(Joan and I have had a discussion – who is the one doing all the speaking. Guess who said what!)

 

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Circular Letter No 32

17th March 2001

As I said last week, the tourists are coming back. This week we have seen 6 bus groups in Galilee, and similar numbers of tour groups around Jerusalem. Tour buses were also heading into Bethlehem, though like everyone else, they had to wait while the checks were carried out at the army check point. One of the big headlines this week was that the Closure was being lifted at one or two places, and Bethlehem was one of them. I, therefore, in my naiveté, had a vision of traffic moving fairly freely. Not a bit of it. There was still checking, still vehicles being turned back, and when we did get in to Bethlehem, there was then the problem of how to get out. However, more of that later.

We had a quick trip to Galilee with Vivienne, and the transformation from Christmas when we were there with Peter was a delight to the eyes. Fields, not quite of waving grass, but at least of grass, blossom on trees, cereal crops beginning to ripen, - all because of the fact that rain had fallen. The level of the Sea of Galilee has risen, perhaps 30 cms, perhaps a bit more. However, it is still a long way below the supposed danger level, and needs every bit of water it can get to fill it up before the real dry season sets in. Which is what makes the story in the papers on Tuesday or Wednesday so compelling. Fairly large headlines accused the government of Lebanon of building a pumping station on a tributary of the Jordan, in order to divert its water away from the Jordan. Calls for the UN to intervene, and dire threats from the Government of Israel about countries breaking international understandings concerning the use of “international” water resources. It seemed a bit of a hollow complaint from a government which has consistently limited the amount of water made available to the West Bank. However, a day or two later, the UN issued a statement saying that the Israeli government had been informed of the decision to build this pumping station, and that its purpose was to supply water to villages in the area of Lebanon from which Israeli army units had withdrawn last year. We will see if that is sufficient for this matter to fade away, but what is sure is that the whole question of water will not fade away – and decisions will have to be made soon about building desalination plants.

When Joan and I were preparing last autumn to go back to Murrayfield to share in the Centenary Service of the congregation, we decided that we would take, as a gift, a Pulpit Fall embroidered by the women of one of the village co-operatives near Hebron – the village of Idna. In September we were able to visit there with Alan and Heather Mowat, without too much difficulty. However, since then, the Intifada has evoked the response from the IDF of Closures, and we have not been able to get to Idna since late last year. However, by dint of walking over the hills, and taking taxis between check points, women from the co-operative have come up to Bethlehem – about 60 kms – to meet with people from the Sunbula shop at St Andrew’s.

The congregation of Vrsovice in Prague, with which Murrayfield is linked, celebrates its 50th birthday in May, and when it was asked what it would like by way of a memento, requested some form of an embroidery from Idna. We planned to try to go to the village last Monday, but a phone call on Monday morning from the British Consul suggested that it would not be the best day to make the trip! So, a meeting was re-arranged for Wednesday, in Bethlehem.

Nuha is the member of the group who does the travelling. We met her in Bethlehem with Toshiko, the Japanese volunteer who has been working with these groups for some years, and who is skilled in designing embroidery. Joan and Vivienne were with me, and we headed for a small tea room which Toshiko and Nuha usually use for their meetings. There are three tables, and we got one of them = tea was ordered, and then the lights went out – a power failure, or outage. Just normal, said the people. It lasted for well over half an hour, then the lights came on and we got our tea!

We had just sat down, when Nuha quietly began to cry – so we had to sit and wait for her to compose herself. Crying is not something that any of us had ever seen her do. Her journey had taken about 2 hours – for 60 kms. She had had to change taxis a couple of times, and had had to go through 10 IDF check points, with the ever-present possibility that for no discernible reason a soldier would not allow her to go on with her journey. Having got to Bethlehem, then was then the problem of getting home. Also, with the disappearance of tourists, the market for their goods had disappeared, and so the women of the co-operative were not meeting – they had nothing to work at, with virtually no orders. This is the group which we may try to help with some of the money that many of you gave at Christmas time. (It is true that they are only one such group, and there are dozens across the West Bank – but we are unable to help them all.)

We eventually got to the discussion about the order for Prague – a Communion Table Cloth. For a group of Muslim women, it is a table cloth, though they are delighted to be producing goods for churches.

  1. The top panel of the cloth will have an embroidered version of the mosaic that is in the Church of the Loaves and Fishes – to represent the feeding by Christ of the multitude. When used for Communion Services in Prague, it is hoped it will be a significant reminder of the Bread that Christ gave, and the Bread that is himself.
  2. The two end panels of the cloth which will hang down from the table, will have a Jerusalem Cross in the middle of each end, set in a stylised border of grapes
  3. The front panel will have three Celtic crosses, also set in a stylised border of grapes.

Toshiko has never designed anything like this, the women have never made it, and we have never been involved in planning anything like it. Churches, watch this space! Any of you wanting new cloths for a communion table, a Fall for a pulpit, etc. We would be delighted to assist in supplying you, and the women of Idna would be thrilled to have more work.

(Once we get the finished article, I will try to get a photo on the computer, so that I can send it to you.)

When we were finished our meeting, we went for a quick shopping trip to a shop that sells cloth and threads, and then it was time to go home. We said that we would take Nuha as far as we could. Remember, The Closure around Bethlehem was lifted, according to the papers, So off we went on the Hebron road, and got to the end of the town where there was still the large mound of earth shutting the road. Back we came and followed the “bypass” of the taxis and trucks. It took us to another, even higher, mound of earth and rubble, but in the middle of this 3 metre high mound, a hole had been cleared, just wide enough for a truck or a bus. There was a steady stream of traffic, and we waited our turn. We passed through the barricade, and came to the main road, where there were two Israeli Army Jeeps – with the soldiers paying not the slightest bit of attention to the traffic. We were able to turn south on the road, which had a reasonable volume of traffic on it – and get to the outskirts of Hebron without a check point. There, we left Nuha, as that road into Hebron was closed with a mound of earth, and as she felt safer going in a taxi from the other side of the mound, than trying to pass through or by Hebron with us.

Happily she was in a better frame of mind by mid-day than she had been when we met her – but what a way for the Israelis to win friends and influence people, and what a way to run a Closure which has allegedly been lifted.

There is a growing number of people, within the government as well as in the press, saying that the whole Closure business is counter-productive. An interesting article this week started off with a description of the tactics of the British Army in South Africa at the time of the Boer War – closures then, and the isolating of one community from another. It worked; the British won the Boer war, - and then lost South Africa. Would Apartheid ever have come if there had been a more enlightened approach to people in 1900? Anyone can be wise after the event, but I found it interesting that this was a historic episode to which Israeli writers were going back.

Our House Group had 15 in it last week. The speaker was Calvin Shenk – a Mennonite minister from the USA, who teaches in the Eastern Mennonite University for 6 months of the year, and at Tantur Ecumenical Institute between Jerusalem and Bethlehem for the other 6 months. For quite a few years he worked with the Mennonite Church in Ethiopia. His teaching includes courses designed to help people understand more of contemporary thought in Judaism, and it was with this in mind that we asked him to lead our discussion. A couple of quotations are quite different from the headlines that one normally hears around here.

  1. “There have been more books about Jesus written by Jewish authors since 1948 than there were written from the time of Christ up to 1948” No-one is sure of why this is the case, but it may have something to do with the fact that now there are Jews living in “The Land”, they can no longer ignore Jesus the Jew, and so have to try to work out an approach to him.
  2. A contribution by a Jewish Rabbi to a discussion about the Messiah – “Maybe the face of the Messiah that we Jews are expecting will not be different from the face of the Messiah for whose second coming Christians are waiting.”

Even in a Bible Study/Discussion Group tensions are never are away. One person in the group started talking about the Apology given by the Pope on behalf of the Roman Catholic Church to the Jewish people for the anti-Semitism of the Church over the centuries, and went on to talk about the need for other churches to echo such an apology. Rizek, a Palestinian Christian, quite naturally reacted with his questions about when will the Jews apologise for what they are doing to his people, both Christian and Muslim, now. What about the 12 people who have died because they have been refused permission to pass check points by the IDF, as they tried to get to hospital for treatment? One of the agonising questions that is frequently mentioned here is why do people who themselves have been “victims” act with such lack of understanding as they victimise others?

Such tensions cannot be swept under the carpet. At some stage they have to be faced, and dealt with. One of the surprising things to me – now that I am here! – is the way in which our church trains its ministers who will spend a life-time preaching about events that took place in the Holy Land, without ever thinking that it ought to include in its educational curriculum a time of study in the Holy Land. I have to admit that I worked for almost all of my preaching life, without ever wanting to come here and see things – as I did not want to be a tourist, and get a bird’s eye view of things in 10 days or so.

This week, I went to speak to the Principal of the Jerusalem University College. They run 2 week courses, using only their own academic staff, to introduce people to the relationships between the Land and the Bible – teaching history, geography, some culture etc. Cost is not cheap - $1,460 for board, tuition, transport within Israel/Palestine, and entrance fees. Transportation to and from Israel is extra.

There is a course lined up for 22nd October to 4th November. If anyone would be interested – it is for lay people as well as ministers – please get in touch with me. I will try to get together a group, if at all possible. Although the College has its own accommodation arrangements for Jerusalem, we will try to get accommodation for Scots (and others!) in St Andrew’s.

If a group is formed for this autumn, it would be a sort of pilot group. If we could get a group of 25 or so, then we could even ask the College to make an itinerary to meet our specific needs.

I am hoping to be able to send more detailed information to the Board of Ministry in Edinburgh. If anyone wants to look up the JUC Website , its address is www.juc.edu

Have to go now, and get out into the sunshine. The family is awake and waiting for me – also just had a call to go to the Hospice and get the Bibles that have been delivered there – courtesy of the Friends of St Andrew’s. We willhave nice new Bibles for our service tomorrow.

We hope you are all well. God Bless.

Love from Joan, Vivienne and Clarence.

Specially for John Maclaren and John Skinner and co : A tourniquet is a tournament for croquet players.

Hope your croquet gets started soon.


Top Circular Letter No 31

10th March 2001

Thanks to the correspondent who corrected my grammar last week – no-one looked “I” in the face,- hopefully he looked “me” in the face. Apologies to those who wre offended by my error!)

One of the things that I had to learn when we went to live in Zambia was how to share in a funeral – spending time at the house of the bereaved family, sharing in the burial service, visiting the house afterwards. All this was done with the community of the congregation participating at every stage. It took some time to learn what I had to do, but when I had the chance to get to know what was the right thing to do, it began to make a lot of sense to me. There was tremendous support from the community of the church to the community of the family.

It was with 13 years of this experience that I then had an enormous jolt when I arrived to share in my first funeral in Scotland in 1980. I was completely unprepared for the lack of congregational participation and support for the family. Whether the family was expecting more from the congregation, or whether this was the norm, I did not at that time know. However over the years, it was often a source of sadness to me that the community of the congregation did not get more involved with a family that was grieving.

If that seems a strange way to start a letter about a week in Jerusalem, the reason for it is that on Friday we went to Haifa – about 150 kms from Jerusalem, to attend the funeral of the sister of Rizek Abusharr, our Session Clerk. She had been ill for some time, following major surgery, but even so her death was a bit of a shock. We duly arrived at the Greek Catholic Church in Haifa, - Joan, Vivienne and myself, - at 1340 hours, about 50 minutes before the time of the funeral, thinking that we would be in good time. The family had been there since 1200 hours, as people had already started arriving for the service. Tradition was that women gathered in one room, men in another. As men came in to the room where Rizek’s brother-in-law was sitting, he rose to greet them, and then they sat down. Coffee in wee cups was offered, a drink of water, and people then sat and talked with each other, or sat in silence. In the other room where the women were sitting, was the coffin (open) and a lot of expression of grief took place with weeping and wailing.

Perhaps the traditions are strange to us, but they were very meaningful to the local community.

About 1420 hours, there was a movement of the men to the room with the women, where the priests said prayers. Then all moved in to the church – in layout and decoration not at all unlike a Greek Orthodox Church. The service, entirely sung, lasted about 30 minutes, with a group of 5 priests sharing in the liturgy, and being assisted by a team of 3 lay people. It was all in Arabic, so there was not much in which we could join, - apart from such obvious phrases as Alleluia and Kyrie Eleison. It did not really matter, as it was such a meaningful expression of people at worship and prayer. There were at least 300 people in the church.

After the service, while the men went to the cemetery, where the burial took place, the o\women went to the home of the family, and waited for the men to come. The ceremony at the cemetery was very simple, with prayers said before the coffin was taken to the grave, and there, having been placed in the grave, people from the congregation filled in the grave. To bring matters to a conclusion, the immediate family stood in a “receiving line” – just as is done at services in Scotland, - and people filed past, shaking hands. There was no attempt to have any conversation at all. Once all had greeted the family, the men returned to the house. There, there was a simple meal of rice, chicken and a sort of “hamburger” The men were served first! – and after two sittings, the women were invited to the table. (Mutterings among those who found this tradition not at all in tune with their experiences.) About 1745 hours we were able to leave and begin the journey home – humbled once again by the warmth with which we had been welcomed, by the courtesy that had been shown to us, and wishing that the same sort of congregational/community involvement could be part of the life of the church in Scotland.

Vivienne arrived safely on Tuesday, brining with her such goodies as boxes of biscuits etc. (The son of the woman whose funeral we attended yesterday has an import business – bringing in biscuits and chocolates from Europe!) Neverthless, thanks for the goodies that did arrive.

She said that some people had been asking her if Joan was still around, as so little is said about her in the Letters! Mea Culpa. As a sort of making amends here is a wee bit!

As might be expected, Art takes a prime place in her activities. Still life predominates in her own work – flowers, fruit, vegetables etc. There has also been time to do drawings of St Andrew’s Church, and of two of the buildings at Tiberias. They will be put into mounts, and a supply brought home – anyone interested can purchase them from somewhere, and the funds will be put to a good purpose! (I have not been told what that is.) By virtue of rearranging the furniture in the second bedroom, there is now a small square space in which easel etc can sit. Also, on the verandah off the lounge, there is room for a sort of “studio” – the light there is not too bad, but in winter the heat is deficient – it is cold and damp. Bits and pieces of equipment have been added – easel, trolley, table – and so art materials can move from one location to another with no difficulty – that should be “can be moved” as art materials have not yet learned how to move themselves!

Not long after Joan arrived, she was invited to be part of a group of women meeting on Thursdays – in each other’s homes – to draw, paint, and talk. The latter is very important as a way of dealing with some aspects of the “situation” here. The group has been here a couple of times – I become a refugee for the day . Thursday of last week it was in Ramallah, and so the rigours and uncertainties of the check points had to be undergone etc. All who wanted to get there did so, and all got back again.

Recently a small group of expatriate women asked her if she would take a class for them, and so in a sort of teaching role, she is part of a group that meets on Monday mornings. They have met 4 times, and are feeling also that it is almost as worthwhile for the social interaction as for the art.

Last week we went out into the hills behind Abu Gosh – sitting with a wonderful view and no-one around. Joan tried out a pastel drawing – first time that they had been out of the box for a while. Hopefully we will get a bit more of that, but finding places where you feel comfortable is not necessarily all that easy.

One of the other members of the Thursday group has been thinking of some sort of project involving drawings/painting of wild flowers of Palestine – including some protected species. She and Joan are trying to work out some sort of project proposals, and who knows, they may be able to interest some Fund, or Trust, that this is a “good idea”. There may be an educational side to it, especially if they develop information about protected flowers and plants. The first thought is to try to get things organised for a Calendar, for the end of 2002 – and then see what happens.

At the moment, going for a drive with Joan is a sort of stop-start affair. There are flowers everywhere – wild cyclamen, daisies of different colours and sorts, wild iris (some short, some tall, some white, some blue) – bright red anemones, fields of wild yellow mustard plants, blossom on the fruit trees – almond just about over - poppies just beginning – and so on and so on.

The Rainbow Group of which I am a member met this past week. The speaker, a replacement of a replacement, was a Jewish lawyer. He and some others, appalled at the assassination of Mr Rabin, had done some thinking, and decided that their response would be to try to get together some sort of educational programme to address the question of inter-community, inter-faith relations in schools. They set up an Organisation which tries to help people think about the conflicting demands of a society which is more religious, claiming to be based on the Torah – the Old Testament Law – and a society which is more secular, claiming that it is democratic. Aiming to assist Head Teachers work out programmes for their schools, they had courses with several modules, each module lasting for 5 hours. So far, over 400 Head Teachers have taken part in these courses.

From the religious point of view, they are asking people to work how, as fallible human beings, we are able to be sure that we have heard the infallible Word from God – whether we are Christian, Jewish or Muslim – and that what we are proclaiming as the Ultimate Truth, is not in fact a mixture of something divine, and something of our own time and culture. The importance of dealing with the question is that it may help people to deal with the teachings, policies etc of Fundamentalist Groups, of whatever religion.

From the secular point of view, there is that universal problem – how can one group’s “rights” be achieved without at the same time denying another group its “rights”. In our context, the rights of the Jewish and of the Palestinian peoples.

Unfortunately, the speaker had to leave after delivering his address, and so there was not the chance to get down to some detailed discussion. We drifted off into the realms of universities and seminaries – dealing with abstract matters. However, it is yet one more instance of the many organisations that do not accept the status quo, nor the policies of either the Israeli Government or the Palestinian Authority.

In the past couple of days, with Vivienne here, we have take a bit of time to go into the Old City. Do you want the good news of the not so good news? The good news is that there seem to be a few more groups of tourists around than there have been for some time. Many of them are American, so either the State Department is softening its advice against coming here, or people are ignoring it. We saw 6 buses parked in a car park on Thursday, where there had been none for weeks. The not so good news is that tourists are noisy! And their presence means that you have to queue up to see such places at the Nativity Grotto in Bethlehem, and the Tomb in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. For the sake of all those who depend on tourism, keep them coming.

If there are good signs, there are also moments of despair. Following what it alleged was shooting from a particular village, the IDF moved in north of Ramallah and dug a deep trench across a main road. The effect was to cut off 65,000 people from access to hospital, to cut the road to Bir Zeit University and stop students getting to classes, and generally wreak even more havoc on life in the West Bank. The local Mayor has taken the step of informing the Army that he is going to take it to court and ask that its action be declared illegal. If it gets that far, it will be interesting to see how it develops.

The new government has been sworn in – there are encouraging noises of contacts being offered between the Government and the Palestinian Authority. Mr Sharon’s speech at his inauguration was very encouraging. However, there is such a lot of scepticism that it is difficult to find anyone who is optimistic. The big condition from the Israelis is that violence must stop. The Palestinians counter by asking who is killing the more people – Israelis or Palestinians? They would be happy to talk when the Israelis stop the violence. Not quite the sort of response that the government had in mind!

Anyway, bye for now.

Daft definitions : Paradox – two physicians. Pharmacist : a helper on the farm.

As I said at the end of Letter No 30, I will continue to send letters only to those who have asked me to do so. To all who have taken the letters so far, thank you for allowing us to share our experiences with you. To those for whom this will be the last letter, I hope we don’t lose touch.

 

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