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Ferryhill Parish Church, Aberdeen

 

Letter from Jerusalem

Other Letters:

Index
No 25-30
No 31-36
No 37-41
No 42-48
No 49-60
No 61-69
No 70-79
No 80-89
No 90-100
No 101-109
No 110-119
No 120-129
No 130-139
No 140-149
No 150-159
No 160-169
No 170-179
No 180-189
No 190-199
No 200-209
No 210-219
No 220-229
No 230-239
No 240-249
No 250-259

No 260-270

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Rev Clarence Musgrave  
and his wife Joan  
were our mission partners. 
They  worked at 
St Andrews Church of Scotland Church 
in Jerusalem before they retired in the summer of 2006.

No 30  3 March 2001

No 29  22 February 2001
No 28   17 February 2001
No 27 10 February 2001
No 26  03 February 2001
No 25  29 January 2001

Circular Letter No 30

3rd March 2001


A life in the day of ….Sunday 25th February.

Your sins find you out. The evening of 24th, I realised that with one thing and another, - visitors, Sabeel Conference Meetings, work etc. I had not in fact arranged for the printing of the Sunday Service Sheet! So, an early start on Sunday morning, and down to the Hospice. As I parked the car, there was a red half-orb rising over the hills of Jordan, into a clear blue sky. A wonderful sight, and not one I imagine that I will see all that often. It once again forcibly reminded me of how small this area of the world actually is – Amman, - a world away in terms of land access – is just a few miles down the road.

Anyway, I digress. Service at 1000 hours. A few more in the congregation than usual – 15 students from Jerusalem University College. They are young Americans, and come from fairly conservative theological church backgrounds. St Andrew’s will be quite different for them, in theology, in worship, in prayer, in singing. They are not able to come every Sunday, as they have field trips in connection with their studies about the Land of the Bible. It is good that they come at all! We celebrated Communion – as is the practice on the last Sunday of the month. Three Elders distributed the Elements – Heather, who is a teacher at Tabeetha School, English and has been here for 20 years; Jenifer, who teaches at the YWCA in East Jerusalem, and whose husband’s contract is expiring in mid-year, English married to a Scot and an excellent teacher for the Country Dancing Class (dances with Molly Sturrock’s son) and has been here 4 years; Layne, who shortly will be ordained by the Presbyterian Church of the USA, and currently is the PCUSA’s Co-ordinator of its volunteers in the West Bank, and has been here for about 5 years.

Before the service, Rizek Abusharr (The Session Clerk) told me of the death of Lucien Harris, the husband of one of my colleagues on the Board of the Jerusalem International YMCA. Ruth Harris originated in New York, but has been in Israel for 40 years. She was the first person whom I met on the Board, and was very gracious to me. Her husband had not been well for a while, and when I saw her on Tuesday last week she was a bit worried about him. Hearing that the funeral was Sunday afternoon, I thought I would go. As Rizek was going, I went with him. Alice, his wife, also was going, so Joan came along with me.

The traffic was horrendous, and it took us over an hour to do less than 3 miles. However, we got there before Ruth, so all was well. There is a short of covered rectangular hall, with a low catafalque at one end, and a podium behind it. A row of bench seats is along the side wall. Otherwise, people stand. There are some black-coated, hatted, officials of the Cemetry Company, who are responsible for the “routine” prayers and organisation. A eulogy was given by Rizek. In the present situation, where Jew fights Arab, it was one of the more remarkable aspects of the funeral that it was an Arab Christian who was invited to speak at the funeral of an English Jew who had come to live in this land over 40 years ago, and whose presence in the land is one of the reasons for the current conflict.

The body is laid on a stretcher, it is wrapped in a shroud, and covered with a black and white prayer shawl. At the conclusion of the rather rapid prayers, it is carried out by the staff and friends and placed in the back of a Transit van to be taken to the grave, 2 or 3 minutes’ drive away. We follow in cars, park and then follow the bearers of the body to the grave. The cemetery is on the top of a hill, from which you look down on the Jerusalem-Tel Aviv road. Graves which have been used are covered over with a stone rectangular “box” – about 65 cms high. On the top is usually written the name and date of death of the person buried there, but little else. I have never seen, for instance, a picture on a grave stone. The family and the mourners gather round the grave. With the Attendant reciting prayers, the body is gently lowered off the stretcher and placed in a concrete box already prepared at the bottom of the grave. Once it is in place, small slabs are placed over the top of the box to protect the body, and then the soil is filled in, by cemetery staff, then by members of the family and by friends. Final prayers were said by the sons of Lucien, and the formal part of the burial came to an end. Ruth said a few words, one of the family spoke, a grandchild also spoke, and then we started to leave. I found it a very simple, but moving, experience.

From there, we drove the 35 kms to Lod – not to far from the Airport. Samuel Fanous lives there with his family. Samuel is the Episcopal priest in Lod, is the Chaplain of Tabeetha School, and serves on the School Board. He has also been involved with the work of the Church of Scotland through the Partnership Committee which brings together CofS staff and Episcopal staff.

Last Friday afternoon I had driven down to Lod to attend the funeral of his wife, Lily. A vibrant young woman in her late 30’s, she had been found dead in her home when Samuel brought the older children home from school. The youngest one, who was at home with Lily, was becoming agitated and wondering why Mummy would not wake up. As you can imagine, the church was packed, and people were standing outside. It was a service in Arabic, following what I imagine was the Liturgy of the Anglican Church, and was moving in its simplicity and in the restrained but sincere way in which the congregation joined in the prayers, responses, and hymns. As I looked round the congregation – in the church it was mostly women – I could not help but recall the refrain repeated so often by representatives of the Israeli government in the early days of the Intifada, that Palestinian women sent their children out to be killed in the demonstrations. Here were those same Palestinian women, whose grief was so palpable, and as you grieved with them, you also grieved that human beings can be so evil as to try to make political propaganda out of the bereavements of others.

On Sunday evening, when we arrived at the house where Samuel and his family lived, which is adjacent to the church, we found that people were sitting in the hall of the church – a sort of crypt. Men were in one room, women in another, but Samuel welcomed the four of us into the one room, and invited us to sit together. Little was said by anyone. Coffee was offered – Arabic coffee – and then things began to happen. There was to be a Communion Service, led by one of the senior ministers of the Diocese, and we were invited to share in it. Again it was in Arabic, and by now the congregation had grown to approx 150. They were all familiar with the Liturgy, and it was very comforting to be surrounded by the sound of people worshipping in the way that they did normally. As you can imagine, there was no exuberance, but there was enormous feeling. The Bread used in the service was Pitta bread. When we went up to receive the Elements, Father Kemal, the priest in charge, looked Joan and I in the face and spoke to us in English – a beautiful gesture or welcome and inclusiveness.

So, at the conclusion of the service, we greeted a few people, and took our leave of Samuel.

I could not help reflecting that within the space of a couple of hours, I had had the opportunity of embracing a Jewish woman, grieving for the loss of her husband, and an Arab man, grieving for the loss of his wife. When will they be able to embrace each other?

Last week was a conference organised by Sabeel. Sabeel is a Palestinian Christian Organisation, led by Canon Naim Ateek, the aim of which is to try to work out an interpretation of Liberation Theology that meets the needs of the Palestinian situation. The conference originally had been scheduled to be held in Bethlehem, and there were hopes that up to 1,000 people might come from different parts of the world to share in it. In the end of the day, there were over 200 who came from outside Israel, and it was held here in Jerusalem, at the Catholic Conference Centre – Notre Dame. The Theme was “Speaking Truth, seeking Justice”. There were lectures by people from different parts of the world; there was worship organised, for the most part, by people from within the church community here; there were visits to Ramallah and Bethlehem. I suppose of the most striking things for me was to hear speaker after speaker say that the Peace Process which had been in operation last year, is now dead. The Oslo Accords, which were designed to achieve better relationships between Israel and Palestine on a step-by-step basis, had failed, and really now were part of history. At least one speaker said they were doomed from the very start, due to the fact that, in the end of the day, what Israel wanted would be what was done. There was quite open and trenchant criticism of the Palestinian leadership, one speaker saying that no progress could be made until the old leadership had moved on, and new people were in place. There was discussion as to whether the future lay down the road of “Two States” – Israel and Palestine – or down the road of “One State” with Jew and Arab living together in one state.

The visits to Ramallah and Bethlehem allowed the overseas participants to experience the reality of the road blocks. 7 coaches pulled up at the check point to Ramallah. About 1 ¼ hours later, we got through the block. At first, the soldiers would not let us in, as they were afraid the Palestinians might kill us! Then when they had realised that this was unlikely, they had to get special permission for the drivers! What a waste of time. At the check point into Bethlehem, the buses were refused entry. So others were arranged for the Palestinian side of the check point. Then one Israeli Arab from Nazareth was refused entry by the soldiers, and her Permit was confiscated. So more confrontation. In the end she got her Permit back, went back towards Jerusalem, and walked through the gardens of the Tantur Institute, which skirt round the check point! Again, what a waste of time. Yet, it was a very good demonstration of what Palestinian people have to go through on a regular basis.

While the Sabeel Conference was on, there was another conference in a different part of Jerusalem. It was organised by Christian Biblical Zionists, who would generally be much more supportive of the Israeli position. One of the people invited to be a speaker at that conference was Mr Sharon. I have no doubt that the participants there also felt that God was on their side, and that he would answer their prayers. How the Almighty would reconcile the very different prayers coming from two such divergent groups of people, all in the name of Jesus Christ, is a mystery.

It is also a sadness, that the two groups exist side by side, with virtually no communication at all.


Greetings from a confused correspondent!

God bless. Love from Joan and Clarence.


A propos of nothing : The first man to go round the world was the man in the moon.


P. S. Having now reached 30 of these Epistles, it is a good time to pause and reflect. They were started to let the family at home know what was going on, and then they sort of changed when trouble started in October. Also, the number of people to whom they were sent sort of mushroomed.

It is my hope to go on writing them, but it is also my intention to revise the mailing list, and make up a new one. It may be that you now feel you would rather not receive future letters. It may be that you would like to continue to have them sent to you.

I have therefore decided that I will only put on the revised Mailing List those people who actually want to be there. If you would like to have your name on the list, please let me know. If I do not hear from you, then I will not trouble you with further letters after Letter No 31.


P.P.S. No 28 is still being written. Hopefully some day I will finish it!

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Circular Letter No 29

22th February 2001

The eagle eyed - or the organised may notice that this is Letter No 29 and wonder what has happened to Letter No 28. It is still being written, but this is a quick letter about today!

It has been one of those bitter sweet mornings.

First of all, thanks to all who sent donations by whatever means to the Appeal that I made before Christmas for emergency relief for Palestinian people.

According to the figures that I have, we received from overseas, the sum of £9,090.67 , and US$4,168.96. This comes to ( approx) NIS 70,500. Some of this came before Christmas the rest, for one reason and another, arrived last week. Though delayed, there is still a need, and it is not going to get any better for a long time. So, a very big thank you to all who helped.

What made today a sort of bitter sweet day is this.

I went to the bank and got NIS 10,000 in cash got a cheque for NIS 10,000 from the church treasurer, and headed off to Bethlehem and Beit Jala. I also had in the boot of the car, two suitcases that had come from Scotland on Wednesday, in the care of the Church of Scotland official representatives to the Sabeel Palestinian Liberation Theology Conference Speaking Truth, seeking Justice. The suitcases contained hand-knit woollen clothes from a Sunday School at Kemnay near Aberdeen. So I set off, feeling like Santa Claus.

First stop was at the military check point. There were perhaps 7 or 8 vehicles in front of me. It took me at least 15 minutes to get to the head of the queue, and then I was waved through, without any paper being asked for or shown. What an enormous waste of energy and time, to have the young Israeli soldiers having to go through all this, which in a sense degrades them, and the people moving in and out of Bethlehem mostly Palestinians to have to spend hours each week just waiting to get through a check point.

Next stop was at the Evangelical Lutheran Church in Beit Jala. Andrew McLellan and Alan Macdonald will remember this place, where we met the Pastor and the Social Worker Heyam Abu-Dayyeh . From the money that was sent to us, we had already given the church NIS5,000 for Food Parcels. Today, we had NIS 10,000. I had arranged to meet Heyam at the church, though she told me that she is not at all well. She feel a couple of weeks ago, aggravating an old injury, and has been told to rest. How can I rest, she says, my people need me and the pastor is away on business. Need her they do. On Tuesday night, when I was sitting here at home at the desk, I could hear the bombardment of Beit Jala. That is well over 5 miles away. I fully agree that it is wrong for the Palestinians to shoot at a Jewish neighbourhood. I am prepared to allow that the IDF has the right to reply, like for like. What I find unacceptable is the scale of the IDF reply. In our newspaper today is a photograph of the front of a bedroom of a house, blown completely open. In the bedroom a youngster was killed.

Does small arms fire justify that sort of response? When the rockets hit the house, in which I was told by Heyam that up to 25 people were staying, some were hurt and so they went to the hospital when they could get out of the house. In the trauma, they forgot a youngster upstairs in bed it was only later when they were at the hospital that they asked where he was. (Remember another story of a boy getting lost but being found alive?) They went back to the house, and found the youngster dead body in one place and head in another. That requires some force to inflict injuries like that.

Anyway, says Heyem, also on that night, the house of the Church nurse was hit how can I leave my people and be sick?

It was sad to see her when we saw her in December and again in January she was lively now she is worn down, and unwell. Since the bus incident in Tel Aviv, the Israeli authorities have refused permission for Palestinians to fly out of Ben Gurion airport Heyem is hoping that she will get permission to go to Germany where there are supporters of her church, for rest and treatment for her back injury.

She is 36 years old single will marry, if at all, when she finds someone whom she can love not like the old days of arranged marriages graduated from Bethlehem University with a BA in Social Work and Sociology. She worked at her church as a volunteer from 1992 1994, and since then has been employed as its Social Worker. She still recalls the first salary that she got from the church. She had set up a small craft-selling shop, and took over to the Pastor the profits from that. From those profits she got her first cheque! Now she ets NIS 2,000 per month (NIS 6 = 1 pound sterling; NIS 4 = US$ 1). Not too many people liken me to an angel! but in the sense of being a messenger, why not. Today I was the messenger who brought your gifts to one place where they are greatly appreciated and desperately needed. Thank you for the privilege.

From there, it was along the road to the Al Shurooq School, to see Helen Shehadeh. We sat down and had a bit of a chat, and then out of the car came the two suitcases. Christmas come late thanks to the congregation of Kemnay church in Aberdeenshire. They had sent a card, and a letter, and lots of handknitted sweaters etc. They will be more than useful for the next while, as we are still in winter. Then, they can get put away till next year. We talked a bit about the school, its financial situation, etc. Difficult times for Helen and the school, to find enough to pay the rent, to feed the kids and provide a secure environment for them. Helen, as those of you who have visited her will know, is quite remarkable. Speaking about the shooting, she said that the other night some gunmen were shooting from her area at the Israeli areas. Next morning she got on the phone to the local commander, and told him that there should be no more shooting. She had blind children. What was she to do with them if shelling started in retaliation? No shooting since then! We hope to have a meeting of the Kirk Session on Monday next week to meet the Board of World Mission people here from Scotland at 1730 hours. Said Helen, I would love to come, but shooting often starts in the early evening. I would not want to put you at risk in coming to get me. I wonder how many other Elders of the Church of Scotland miss a Kirk Session meeting because they would have to run the gauntlet of possible shooting? So, she will not be there, and her voice will not be heard.

Lastly it was along to the Bethlehem Bible College where they have the Shepherd’s Society. We had given NIS 10,000 to it already for its work in providing Food Vouchers. Now it is also paying school fees for people who have nothing with which to pay them. They are paying electricity bills for those who have nothing to use to pay them. So, our donation will help a bit but there is such a need. The President of the Bible College is a Palestinian, with an American passport. Yet he lives in Bethlehem. His son came from USA to visit him, and was trapped by this refusal of the Israeli authorities to allow Palestinians to fly out of Ben Gurion. Said Bisharra, the College President) we had to get a lawyer and go to the High Court to get an order allowing our son to go back to his home and his work in the USA.

It is hard to convey to you the appreciation that there is for your generosity, and for your remembering this country and its peoples in your thoughts and prayers. For me, it is an enormous privilege to be able to go and bring some assistance to people who are really under the hammer. You can appreciate how it is a bitter sweet sort of day.


Last time I was at Al Shurooq, a wee figure crept along the edge of the sofa on which I was sitting beside Helen Shehadeh, and climbed up on my knee. Helen spoke to her, and from the smallest of mouths came the soft notes of Old MacDonald had a farm! It was Lara, who is 3 years and something old. What fun, what a joy, and also what a sadness, as you think what sort of world she will face when she grows up.


We had similar situations in Africa, and wondered about the fate of the children there. I think there is one major difference between our situation in Zambia, or latterly in Ghana, and here in Israel/Palestine. In Africa, there was the pressure of the world economy and how it would or would not treat a developing countries. That too is the case here, with the need for the development of Palestine. In Africa, there was pressure on the government from its people for integrity, for development, and for all sorts of freedoms. That too is the case here, with the pressure of the people on the Palestinian Authority. What is different is the third ingredient the overwhelming force of the Israeli state, government, army, and its publicity machine.


Anyway, back to Lara, what a joy to be able to sit with her even for a short time. And to think that I get paid to do that!!

Just a few "nothings"

In Bethlehem at a shop we got a box of oranges, about 90 oranges, for NIS 13 - just over 2 pounds, or $3. At Bethlehem we got the same quantity for NIS 10. In Gaza, they are for sale at NIS 5 and many trees still have their fruit on them, as there is little point in people picking them, since they cannot get them to market.

Buying some mince steak - the butcher goes over to a side of beef, cuts off the meat, trims it, and then puts it into the mincer, along with a bunch of parsley, an onion and some garlic. Don’t even have to do prepare it when we get it home!

Going to the airport on Tuesday night/Wednesday morning, to pick people up at 0130 hours on Wednesday. Left early, as the forecast had been for 3 cms of snow in Jerusalem! It was bitterly cold, and raining a lot, but fortunately it stopped with hail, and we did not get snow.

What do you do with 90 oranges when you get them? Drink orange juice. I was passing a shop in East Jerusalem and went in. I came out with a small Moulinex orange juicer - so now I don’t even have to expend any energy juicing the oranges. So tasty that we had one glass each, then a second one each - and you can guess the outcome of that!!


Enough of this domesticity.

Bye for now. God bless.

Love Joan and Clarence.


"An adult is a man that has stopped growing at both ends but not in the middle."

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Circular Letter No 28

17 February 2001.

One of the songs that we used to sing occasionally in church in Scotland included the lines – “Where have all the young men gone? …. When will they ever learn, when will they ever learn?” It has a haunting refrain, and came to mind this past week when one had to try to comprehend the way in which things were degenerating here. From “demonstrations”, to an “uprising”; to the “Al Aqsa Intifada”, and this week in the papers, to “war” Helicopter gun ships are designed to kill – they are instruments of war, and so one is not surprised that they are used to kill. One can totally disagree with their use, but at least they are being used for the purpose for which they were made. A bus is not an instrument of war – used to take people to work, to hospital, to visit friends, to cement relationships, to reduce pollution – to enhance life. Yet this week, near Tel Aviv, it was used to kill 8 young folk in the blink of an eye. As is the way, the papers that we read give lengthy obituaries about the youngsters who were killed, and what a waste of life. When will they ever learn - but what is it that they, ( whoever “they” are) – have to learn? For the Israelis - Harsher ways to impose the Closure on the Arab population? More exhaustive ways of security checking those who are allowed to work in Israel? Tighter security measures, to make life safer for the Israeli population? For the Palestinians – new ways to circumvent the closure? New ways of trying to get revenge for all that has been inflicted on them? Ways to show their determination not to be kept down for yet longer? For both sides - Better ways to kill others? More intrusive ways of controlling their populations?

There has not been much talk this week of learning any new ways to try to reach a solution to the steadily growing tragedy, but rather more and more of the same.

Pray for the peace of Jerusalem – there seems little more that can be done at this moment.

Headlines from Friday’s paper –

Ramon ( a member of Knesset and a Minister in the outgoing government of Mr Barak) attacks Barak for practicing ‘one-man rule’.

Netanyahu : Arafat saw Oslo as a way to destroy Israel (speaking before conservatives who are considered close to the Bush Administration)

High Court (of Israel) okays sleep deprivation for Shin Bet (Security Police) probes. “The High Court issued a ground breaking ruling yesterday, saying that it was legal for Shin Bet interrogators to deprive a suspect of sleep as long as the intention is to advance an investigation and not to exhaust the suspect or break his or her spirit.”

Shin Bet waits to question Azur attacker (the bus driver who is described as a terrorist)

Israel brushes off criticism of its ‘liquidation policy” – ‘Israel’s isolation in the international arena is intensifying as a result of the derailment of the peace process and the escalation of violence in the territories.’

Shabbat Times : Jerusalem : 1648 hrs Friday - 1805 hrs Saturday : Tel Aviv 1706 hrs Friday – 1806 hrs Saturday

Five victims of Azur bus attack laid to rest

Netzarim (Settlement in the Gaza Strip) residents take to shelters as settlement comes under fire again.

PA (Palestinian Authority) cheque to family of boy shot by IDF bounces.

Israel’s Naval chief to visit India next week,

Sunday afternoon 4th March.

A long way from the beginning of this letter, and perhaps it should be consigned to the waste basket. But, as we were starting the service this morning, one of the Elders came up to me to ask if I had heard of the bombing at Netanya – then 2, now 3, people killed and scores injured. We had just said a prayer to commence worship = This is the day that the Lord has made. Kind of hard to continue with that sort of thought when others had been using the day for such a different purpose. So, once more the ratchet is turned, and another level of violence reached.

We get paper delivered to the house now – Ha’aretz. Our “Sunday” is Saturday, with no deliveries or papers. So, it was there this morning to have a quick look at it before going off to church.

From the front page of the paper this morning one learns :

That the IDF, in an attempt to curb gunmen shooting at traffic on the road from Hebron to Jerusalem, has set up new “posts” to keep surveillance on the road – 10 of them have been put on the roofs of Palestinian houses. Can you imagine what that does to the life of the family? To the dignity of the family? To the security of the family? Given the fact that the military is in control of these areas, there is little anyone can do to challenge this, or to make the military move elsewhere.


The first non-Jewish Israeli minister has been nominated to the government of Mr Sharon. He is Salah Tarif, a Druze from Northern Israel – will be the first non-Jewish minister if this history of the State of Israel. Not unnaturally there are conflicting reactions to the news from within the Arab community .


Three Palestinians shot dead, including a 9-year old boy shot in his home. He was watching his father paint the wall of a brother’s bedroom when a bullet hit him in the chest. Again, take your pick as to why the shot was fired in the first place. A mentally disabled man was shot dead in Gaza, the IDF thinking that he was setting up a road-side bomb.


2 East Jerusalem residents – Arabs – were wounded by shooting on Friday night, shots fired at their car by Palestinian gunmen.


Add to all this the news of the bomb at the BBC in London, and it is sure a peaceful world.


Courtesy of a former colleague, who had the responsibility of equipping what is called the Resource Room in the Hospice, I have been reading my way through 1,000 pages of the History of Israel – by Howard M Sachar. I must confess at the outset that I started in the middle, skipped to near the end, and will then go back to the beginning! One is struck by many ironies – who sought deals from whom, and when. Interesting too that so many of the Israeli players of the 70’s and 80’s are still in place. Interesting too, that at one time Israel was insisting that the Arabs accept UN Resolution 242 – a thing that the Arabs are now trying to ensure that Israel accepts.

Interesting again, that people decades ago were remarking on the influence of ex-generals on the political process, and that this is one of the things that is still talked about – with the IDF being so vocal about security.

For all the talk of security, are we any nearer to it than was the case 10 years ago? Or 20 years ago? One doubts it.


However, life goes on. There are still few tourists. Letters come to me, and to others, of trips being cancelled or re-scheduled for later in the year, or next year. The one “constituency” that is still coming is represented by the Jewish community from the States. The day that I got an e-mail from Scotland telling of the change of date for a group, I passed a line of buses outside the hotel at the bottom of the road – 9 of them, with a poster in front of each one – Solidarity Mission. Tour Number 9. That represented about 450 people.

How about one group of people coming out to show some solidarity with the local Christian community? Good accommodation, no pressure from other tourists, good guides, good food, good weather, good air fares. Any takers?


Have been summoned to go for a walk. Will end here, and this is a bonus this week. – perhaps bonus is a bit of a misnomer.


Anyway, on a lighter note, a series of definitions from Gavin Faulkner in the States brings a chuckle.

Polarise – what penguins see with

Eyedropper – as clumsy ophthalmologist

Baloney – where some hemlines fall.

Misty – how golfers create divots.

Relief – what trees do in the spring.


TTFN Ta Ta for now = bye bye


Joan tells me to say that the flowers are still blooming, the trees are re-leafing, the birds singing, and the bees buzzing.


God bless and love.


Joan and Clarence.


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Circular Letter No 27

10th February 2001

It seems terribly presumptuous for me to write reflections on the current situation in Israel, when there are so many people already doing it, and doing it so much more professionally. So, if you are full up with comments on the Israeli elections and what it will have done to the Peace Process – perhaps you had better consign this letter to the WPB.

How the mighty are fallen, or Those whom the gods would destroy, they first make great. The epitaph has been written for Mr Barak, and many are speaking of the tragedy that befell him. Israel’s most decorated soldier, officer in charge of brilliant, daring – and successful – military operations, elected Prime Minister in a stunning change of power when he defeated Mr Netanyahu, - and within two campaign seasons (in terms of history when you could only fight when the weather was good and the ground firm) subjected to the greatest defeat in Israel’s short political history. What went wrong?

Mr Sharon – Israel’s most vilified politician in the Arab world which surrounds Israel, and one of the most divisive here in Israel. When we arrived in July last year, Mr Sharon was a sort of avuncular figure, in physical terms not unlike the image of Ted Heath in latter years, and in political terms someone with no future at all. Now, Prime Minister elect, despite the fact that he was forced to resign from Ministerial Office following the inquiry into the massacres in the refugee camps in Beirut in 1982.

A word about the “elect” business. In terms of the Israeli constitution, as I understand it from the press, Mr Sharon now has to put together a Government. To do this he has 45 days, by the end of which he has to present his Government to the Knesset and had it ratified. If he should fail to do that, then there will be a General Election. This is one of the reasons why he is calling for a Government of National Unity – he needs the votes of other parties in the Knesset. His own party has only 19 members, out of 125 (?) members in the Knesset. So, Coalition building is the order of the day. This will mean all sorts of compromises, and it is as you try to please one group that you will offend another. It was, partly, the fact that Mr Barak was unable to please all of the members of his coalition that support started to drift away from him in the summer.

An observation. Israel is very small. One of the things that I learned on my first trip here in 1998 was just how small it is. From the Jordan river to the sea is not much more than a 2- hour drive – less if the traffic in Jerusalem is light – and well within a day you can go from the Lebanon border in the north to Eilat in the South. This has a significant impact on the psyche of the people of Israel – they feel extremely vulnerable, surrounded by Arab states. In the event of a war, they do not have much territory to lose, before they would be over-run.

A second observation. One of the consequences of this is the pre-eminent position given in public life to the Israeli Defence Force (IDF). The IDF is, in a sense which it is hard for folk in the UK to appreciate, the guardian of the land and the nation. It is the guarantor that there will not be another Holocaust here in this part of the world. Given this role to play, and given that every young Jewish person will be called up to do National Service, (unless specially exempted), it is not difficult to see that those who make it to the top of the command structure in the Army will have great influence on the life of the country. The Chief of Staff, the Chief of Intelligence, the officer-commanding such and such a district, - they are all regularly in the public eye as they go to the Knesset to brief a Committee. They acquire an aura of power, and a stature that is not so easily acquired by people in civilian life. And so, there is a great temptation for them to enter political life – Barak and Sharon were both successful generals.

But, are the gifts which make a person a successful general necessarily those which will make him a successful Prime Minister? Having watched Mr Barak in the last few months, one has to say that they are not. In his post-election address, when he announced his concession to Mr Sharon and his imminent resignation from political life, he said that he believed he had followed the right course. Many folk agree with him, but whereas a General is able to command forces to do his will, a politician has to persuade people that he is right and thus deserves to be followed. One of the criticisms of Mr Barak was his lack of sensitivity to carry people along with him by listening to them and by dealing with their doubts and fears. “I am right. Follow me,” was his approach.

Given the role that the IDF plays in national life, is Israel condemned to having a succession of military leaders turned politicians?

A third observation. Israel has a majority of Jewish citizens, and a significant minority of Arab citizens. Is a Jewish Israeli citizen – an Israeli first? A Jew first? A “religious” Jew first? A secular Jew first? Is an Arab Israeli – an Israeli first? an Arab first? A Muslim first? A secular person first? How does a citizen relate to the political process?

A digression – whether rightly or wrongly, many Scots saw the Poll Tax as something which a foreign government imposed on Scotland. So, there was considerable opposition to it in the form of non-payment etc. and in the end it was a contributory factor to the Tories’ demise in Scotland in the mid – 1990’s. Rightly or wrongly, people felt alienated from that part of the political process and that government, and exercised their right to vote and change things.

If you are an Israeli Arab – those Arab people who ended up on the Israeli side of the cease fire lines in 1948 – how do you see yourself relating to the government? It is Jewish (with some minimal Arab participation in it). It pursues policies with which you find it hard to identify. You see it as based on a racial / religious basis which excludes you from being accepted as a full member of society. And so one could go on – with reference to land, to development, to government expenditure etc etc. Jewish teenagers are automatically called up to serve in the IDF. Arab youngsters are not called up. Thus they are, in one sense, disenfranchised. They are excluded from being part of one of the most significant institutions of the life of the state of which they are citizens. They are also disadvantaged in later life, as there are significant financial perks available to former IDF personnel when they return to civilian life. It was interesting to hear Shimon Peres justify the exclusion of any Arab politicians from the Cabinet on the grounds that the Cabinet has to take security decisions. Are Arab Israelis not capable of taking such decisions?

(To an outsider, it was with incredulity that I heard the accusations made by black people in Florida, that they were prevented from voting in the recent American Presidential Elections. Whether such accusations are substantiated or not is one thing, but the fact that they were made obviously shows the perceptions of black people as to how they are regarded and treated. That this should happen so long after the Civil Rights Marches etc of the mid-1960’s, shows how difficult it is to incorporate people into the political process. If it is that difficult in America, is it any wonder that it is seemingly impossible to integrate the Arab citizens of Israel into its political life.)

If you are an Israeli Jew, where does your first loyalty lie, and what implication will this then have for the sort of state which you will be trying to build? Is it to Israel – a state for Jewish people first, and for any others who happen to live there second? Is it to Israel – a state for all who happen to live there? Your answer to this question will influence the way in which 1.2 million of the citizens of Israel – the Israeli Arabs - see their future, and wonder if they can ever fully participate in the life of their country. Will it be a secular state, or will it be a religious state? Within the Jewish community this is the subject of a vigorous debate. One of the interesting ways in which this debate affects life concerns the role of girls in the IDF. In many places there is an active debate about whether or not women should serve in front-line fighting forces. Here the debate also is raging, with the added ingredient that there are those who, on religious grounds, say they cannot be part of a unit which has women members. At the moment, their religious beliefs are being respected, while a final decision is being worked out.

Some headlines from Ha’aretz newspaper on the day after the election :

Page 1 : Sharon crushes Barak 60% - 40% . Seeks unity government; Barak resigns: Arabs boycott election.

Page 2 : The Arab boycott – a resounding blow to the Labour Party. (20% of Arabs voters voted, with 25% of them voting for Sharon)

Page 3 “Once again, the Russians vote against a sitting PM.” (The Russians are the immigrants from Russia, and there is a market research firm that specialises in gathering information about the Russian community, now over 1 million.)

“Sharon as de Gaulle?”

With all these conflicting pressures, is it any wonder that the situation is complex and confused?


The past week has given me opportunities to listen!!

On Friday 2nd Feb, there was a phone call. Are you doing anything at 5 o’clock? The tone of the voice was a wee bit desperate, and so I went to the meeting at which an author was presenting the thesis of his new book – THE TEMPLES JERUSALEM FORGOT. (The desperation lay in the fact that there were only 10 people present!) Ignoramus that I am, I had never heard of it, but then I cheered up a bit when I heard that it had not long been published. Whether he is a crank or a genius has yet to be established. As you will know, one of the most contentious areas of conflict in Jerusalem is the Temple Mount. Sacred to Jews as the site of the Temple; sacred to Muslims for its association with Muhammad. The thesis of this new book, based on interpretations of historical texts is that the Temple was in fact on a different site! – some 500 metres to the south, beside the Gihon Spring. Should this be correct, then it would solve the religious conflict about the Temple Mount at one stroke – The Jewish people would have their own site, the Muslim folk would have theirs, and all could be happy! What an ingenious solution to a seemingly intractable problem.

On Wednesday 7th Feb there was a meeting of the Rainbow Group – this “unusual” group of Christians and Jews. The speaker was a Muslim academic, speaking about Religious Education within the Muslim community. He was disturbing, informative, challenging, optimistic, pessimistic – take your pick. Some of the situations that he described :

The problem of teaching in an Arab school in Israel, where you have both Christian and Muslim Arab children.

In History, what do you say about the Crusades, that will respect the perceptions of two very different communities?

In Religious Education, what do you say about the Koran and the Bible? When there is so much by way of confrontation between Muslim and Christian in different parts of the world, what is your approach in a school in Israel?

How does the Israeli (largely Jewish) Ministry of Education see its responsibilities for Religious Education for Muslims and Christians within the state school system of Israel?

Cross the border into the areas administered by the Palestinian Authority, and there you find in the West Bank a Curriculum that was largely established when the Area was under Jordanian control. In Gaza the Curriculum was largely established by the Egyptians. How do you reconcile these two? Broadly speaking, the Muslim voices that are listened to on the West Bank are more religiously extreme than those in Israel. This will affect the way of teaching Religious Education, History, Geography and so on.

M. spoke movingly of his own personal experience at Bir Zeit University – an Arab University close to Ramallah. He was teaching there many years ago, The first two years he had no problems, but then there came to the University a group of more fundamentalist students. They eventually went to the authorities of the University and said that if they did not dispense with the services of M. the students would do it for them. So, he left.

Yet, he also spoke of meetings that are currently taking place between groups of Muslim and Jewish academics, trying to work out some forms of “consensual” approaches to the whole question of the relationships between Judaism and Islam.

On Thursday 8th, we had the third in our series of meetings of the Church Discussion Group with Michel our speaker. He is a Palestinian Christian, a member of the Syrian Orthodox Church, which uses Aramaic as the language of its Liturgy and worship Michel has featured in my letters before – he it was whose impassioned contribution to a meeting in October let to the invitation to the Moderator to come here. What a delightful way to be able to start a discussion – “as my ancestor said to Jesus!” Jesus used Aramaic, and the Syrian Church claims to trace its roots back to the original Christian community here in Jerusalem. So he has a certain self-confidence about making his claim to be a part of the land and its people. He has no problem living with anyone, as long as no-one claims to have sole rights to anything around here. Not a bad position to adopt. Like many others, his family had their house in the Old City confiscated from them, without compensation. Like many others, he has had to make several new starts in life, and the most recent was to invest heavily in a Restaurant in the Old City. It was up and running in time for the year 2000 – and then came the Intifada – and the disappearance of tourists. He still has the loans to pay, with little by way of income. A familiar story here, from both sides of the community, where people invested in the expectation that tourists would be a permanent feature of the scene.

It was interesting to listen to Michel, tracing his roots back to Biblical times, and recall the story last week of Rosalind, the daughter of Jewish parents who moved from Lithuania to South Africa, and who came here in 1965. This is her home, and she has nowhere else to go. It is Michel’s home, and he has nowhere else to go.

Friday 9th. Nuha is a member of staff of the International Centre in Bethlehem, largely but not exclusively supported by Lutheran Churches from different parts of Europe. Joan and I were visiting her in the company of Paul Renshaw, a member of staff of Churches Together in Britain and Ireland, who arrived here this week to make arrangements for a visit in March by leaders of various Churches in the UK and Ireland. She is Palestinian, a Christian, a graduate with a string of degrees from American Universities, culminating in a Ph.D from Michigan. She is extremely articulate, full of enthusiasm and vision for the future. About 5 years ago, after 15 years in the States she came back to Palestine, and feels that this is most definitely the right place for her to be. The Closure of the West Bank has prevented her from leaving Bethlehem since October. It is hard to imagine someone being forcibly confined to whatever small Scottish town for over 4 months and yet retaining such a vitality, and such an infectious enthusiasm about the future. Among the programmes at the Centre is one to train Tour Guides, to work with groups coming to the Holy Land. Wryly she says it is difficult now, as the students cannot get out of Bethlehem to go to the places they are learning about!


Saturday 10th. Joan is well known to most who receive this. Having read it, she says to tell you that :
The birds are busy with their normal activities for spring – like building nests etc!
The flowers are blooming
The days are getting longer, and that not everything is obsessed with the political situation.

So, apologies for the length this week – promise that it will be shorter next week.

God bless.

Love from Joan and Clarence.


From the States :
Floods on the Mississippi may be prevented by putting big dames in the river.

Wanted Ads : Large mahogany table, by lady with sturdy legs.

The best of luck reading this!! (Should this have been at the beginning?)

For our Jamaican Readers – breakfast today was pitta bread with salt fish – but no ackees.


 

Top

Circular Letter No 26
3rd February 2001

A brisk start to this before we go off for a Saturday morning stroll – probably round the houses to do a bit more exploring of the neighbourhood. It is clear outside – has been no rain this week, but we are expecting it. One of the items in the paper this week was about rainfall, or more precisely, the lack of it. There was less than half the normal inflow into the Sea of Galilee during January – to enable Israel to fulfil its treaty obligations to Jordan, it is having to build a new pumping station at Galilee, with a deeper uptake, as the level of the Sea is now so low that the present pumping facilities are inadequate.

Early in the week it was cold – Harris Tweed and overcoat sort of weather. Then, one morning I went out to the bank dressed for the cold, to see people in their shirt sleeves! After just a short walk, I realised how over-dressed I was, and was glad to get home and shed some of the layers of clothing.

Violence continues, though of a different kind. Gone are the mass stone-throwing events of the autumn, when there was confrontation at the edges of such places as Ramallah and Bethlehem between Palestinian young people and Israeli young people, the latter in the IDF. Now it is much more sinister. There has been quite a bit of public discussion about the assassinations of leading Palestinians carried out by the IDF, and opinion in Israel is very divided. Yet, killing of Palestinians by IDF continues. There has also been the emergence of killings by Palestinians. The attacks have mainly been on isolated individuals, often travelling in cars on the West Bank. There was, however, the killing of a young Jewish boy who was enticed to Ramallah, and there murdered. There was the killing of two Jewish businessmen who had gone to a West Bank town to get material for their restaurants. There was the killing of a Jewish man, again who seems to have been enticed to a rendezvous and murdered. Vengeance is in the air.

Two episodes this week illustrate the tragedy of the situation. Early in the week, a taxi driver in Gaza was approaching a convoy of Israeli civilian vehicles escorted by IDF troops. There is apparently, according to the paper, a sort of unwritten code that when a Palestinian driver approaches such a convoy, he pulls in to the side of the road until it has passed. In this instance, the driver did not do so, and the soldiers, alarmed at what they thought was erratic driving, shot and killed him. Two days later, an Israeli doctor, returning to him home in a settlement south of Bethlehem, was shot and killed by gunmen who drove alongside his car and opened fire on him. It makes more comprehensible the action of the soldiers in Gaza, though it does not excuse it. However, it also illustrates the spiral of violence that is building up – and there is very much a sense of revenge killing.

Violence of language is another matter. It is in evidence, too, in the run-up to the election next Tuesday, of a new Prime Minister. It is fascinating to be an observer of the political process – though there may be something of the fascination that grips a rabbit when it is being chased by a stoat, or a small antelope when it is being mesmerised by a snake. In both instances, the rabbit and the antelope end up dead. A writer in Ha’aretz this week has likened the situation here to that of an island community awaiting the arrival of a tidal wave, knowing that it is coming, knowing that it will bring destruction, but hoping that all past experience will somehow not apply in this situation. The language used by the supporters of the two candidates is almost apocalyptic, - we had through our door this week an election paper from the Barak supporters, in the form of an Army Call-up notice. Vote for Sharon and go to the army. You have the opposite camp saying A Vote for Barak is a vote for the destruction of Israel.

Being an expatriate is back to the days in Zambia when we watched elections, and could not take part. We wait to see what will happen. But it is interesting to note that both candidates are former generals in the Army. It has been interesting to see that the Army Chief of Staff has been called to Knesset committees this week, as has the Chief of Military Intelligence, and both have given very public briefings to the Committees on their understanding of the ”violence”. It must be hard for such briefings not to have an effect on public opinion, and influence the way people will vote.

There are others, too, who are almost in the role of observers. There is a widespread assumption that the Israeli Arabs, who number 1.2 million of the population, will abstain from the election. Last time there was an election, apparently Barak got the support of something like 90% of the Arab voters. Without it, he will be almost certainly defeated. There was an interesting interview on BBC World this week, when Tim Sebastian met with Shimon Peres in Davos. One of the questions he was asked was why, despite their support for Barak, no Israeli Arab politician had been appointed to the Cabinet. The reply was that in the Cabinet one had to take security decisions, and one could not have Israeli Arabs sharing in such discussions. When is one not a citizen? And yet, the same sort of thinking has been evident in Northern Ireland – how can people like Jerry Adams and Martin McGuinness be allowed to take part in sensitive security discussions, given their record of opposing the security forces was a question that many people asked, and not just people in Northern Ireland.

Yet another little twist in the tale is that there was announced at the end of the week a fairly large contract to sell natural gas to Israel – by the Egyptian Gas Company. I think that it said the gas would be used as fuel for an electricity generating plant. Yet from time to time one of the “weapons” used by the Israeli authorities is to cut off the electricity supplies from areas of the West Bank and Gaza. Who thinks life is not complicated!!!

We have been doing some sums about the Christmas Appeal that I made to folks like yourselves. One way and another, something like $1,000 and pounds sterling 10,700 has been donated. By no means has all of it arrived here yet, such are the vagaries of administration and banks etc. However, to all who have given, an enormous thank you on behalf of the people we have been able to help. Whoever wins the election, there is going to be continuing economic hardship on the West Bank. I will be talking to some of the people to whom we have given money already, to discuss the best way of using the donations that you have made. One obvious possibility is to continue the support of the Emergency Food Voucher schemes. Another possibility is to offer support to some of the Co-operatives that make handcrafts. How this would work I do not know, but I do know that for many of them there is a bleak future at the moment, with the collapse of the tourist market. Women are embroidering more to keep busy than with the hope of selling things. It may be that to help them buy their food, we could offer support in some way to the co-operatives. Which is where you come in, yet again!!!

In Letter No 22 I mentioned our visit to Lakiya to see the Bedouin women weaving rugs. I gave an e-mail address for the Co-operative, and also mentioned that I would send to Murrayfield Church Office a Catalogue for the Sunbula shop. If people, or groups, could order even a few items from Sunbula, this would help to keep women in work, help to keep their families fed, help to keep their morale up. At the time of writing the Closure is still very much in effect, and so there is a major lack of income to the West Bank from those who used to work in Israel, and this money from the sale of craft work is a vital component for many of them.

Three possibilities : a) ask me to have Sunbula send you a catalogue, b) contact Murrayfield Church Office, tel 0131 337 1091, and speak with the Secretary, Mrs Sheila Millar, c) contact Mrs Carol Morton, who was the founder of the organisation that has developed into Sunbula. Her e-mail address is : mortoncc@gn.apc.org. Carol would be able to advise about what goods she has in stock, what she could get, etc. She would be glad to hear from you. She will be coming to Jerusalem at the 16th February, and will be here for a while at a conference. Contact her now!!!

The second of our speakers came to the Church Discussion Group this week. The format is that speaker speaks, we ask for clarification, but we do not get into a debate. This avoids putting anyone on the defensive, and enables the speaker to speak a bit more freely than might otherwise be possible. R is a Jewish woman, with whom I have had previous contact. She gave us her life history as a way of getting into the present situation. Born in Lithuania, her family migrated to South Africa in the early 1900’s. They did well there, and she in time was able to leave home and start travelling. After a short spell in London, she had a stop-off in Israel on her way round the world, and never really left! She has been here since 1966. Those members of the family who left Lithuania to go to different parts of the world, all have survived. Their families are still scattered, but they still exist. The ones who stayed in Lithuania have now died out. She spoke of her family life, and of her involvement with the influx of Russian people who have come to settle in Israel. She herself was very much involved with one young woman who married a Jewish man, had one or two children, and then was killed in one of the bus explosions when Palestinians planted bombs on buses. R adopted the children who were orphaned, and has brought them up as her own. Her son has completed his military service, her older daughter and her adopted daughter are now doing their pre-army training. Following the assassination of Mr Rabin, she become more actively involved in cross-community affairs, particularly in organisations campaigning for a better environment. As she said, the pollution of Tel Aviv is now affecting Jerusalem, and it will not be long before it starts to affect Amman.

She spoke of her anguish at the way things have developed in the past months – of her opposition to the killing that has taken place. She argues that there are no easy, neat solutions. When asked about the return of the Palestinian refugees, she reminds us that the Holocaust is only 50 years ago, and that there is need of somewhere that Jewish people can feel secure. Yet she also acknowledges that it is a strange security which depends on such force as is at present being used by the IDF. When Netanyahu became Prime Minister, she was of a mind to go to Canada to the rest of her family. They dissuaded her, saying that she could not cope with such a mundane existence! She now wonders where to go and what to do if Sharon is elected.

There was not, nor was there expected to be, a common solution to the problems we are all facing here. In fact, I am not sure that there was even an agreement on what is the common problem. But what there was, was an evening spent with a Jewish person who was wrestling with problems that we, as expatriates, just do not have to face. In the end, we might disagree with the solutions she would put forward, but we could not fail to be impressed with the depth of the struggle that she has gone through and still is facing. As in every situation, when you meet actual people, it is harder to talk in stereotypes.

Speaking with one Jewish person about the way news is covered here, we both remarked that it depended on what newspaper you read. In Ha’aretz on Friday the lead story with the killing of 2 Israelis. The total article was 60 cms long. At 53cms, a paragraph started with “Meanwhile, two Palestinians have been killed . . .” In a Palestinian paper, one could imagine that the reporting could well in the exact opposite Certainly from what we have been able to see of TV there is a wide divergence between coverage from Arab stations and from Israeli stations.

Sunday evening.

It is apparently snowing in Edinburgh. However, we were delighted to hear that The Rev Bill Brown, who had been preaching at Murrayfield this morning as Sole Nominee for the position of Minister, has accepted the Call which was addressed to him after the service. He will formally take over in early March, and we are eagerly looking forward to hearing news of the new chapter in the life of the congregation.

Here – we had a Kirk Session Meeting yesterday afternoon. Voted to try to start an evening service once a month following the pattern of worship from Taizé. This will be the “baby” of a member of the congregation from the States. We are going to think about some form of regular mid-week meeting for the congregation and the public. Hoping that the choir will develop – so some things of a positive nature being thought about.

Spent this evening entertaining one of the staff of the Scotsman Paper out here for the election of the Prime Minister. Seems to be a bit of a habit entertaining journalists. Had someone from the (Glasgow) Herald before Christmas. Know anyone on the Press and Journal? (from Aberdeen)

Spent a wee bit of time this morning with a Catholic Priest who had come to the service with visitors from the States – his job is to organise Pilgrimages for people from America, and one of the main things is to try to get them in touch with local congregations here. He was speaking of the need to encourage local Christian people by letting them know that people overseas are thinking of them, and willing to come to visit them. Made me wonder – any of you who get this letter interested in coming over for a visit? Could we get a group or groups together, with an emphasis on trying to meet the “Living Stones” which is the name given to local Christians. Looking forward to some positive responses!

We hope all is well with you, wherever you are.

God bless.

Love from Joan and Clarence


 

Top Circular Letter No 25

29th January 2001

The Good News : The Computer Doctor has been to see both my machines - the one in the office and the one at home. Both have had an Anti-Virus device installed, so that there should be no recurrence of the Virus that accompanied some of my e-mails.

The Bad News There was a Virus, that seemed to attach itself to messages, so that a duplicate message was received by the recipient. The second one was in the form of a separate message with an attachment. If you get two messages at the same time, delete them and and let me know.


The Week of Prayer for Christian Unity. This week’s offering starts as a sort of aide-memoire for me, to help me recall the different services that we are able to attend during this week in Jerusalem.

When the Week of Prayer for Christian Unity came round in Murrayfield, it was a question of sharing in services with the congregations of The Church of The Good Shepherd (Scottish Episcopal Church – part of the Anglican Communion) and Saughtonhall Congregational Church (now united to form part of the United Reformed Church.), which were located in Murrayfield Parish.

So, this week has been a bit of a learning experience, going from church to church to share in the services for this week here in Jerusalem. The diversity, or the division, of the church, can be gauged from the timetable:

Sunday 21st Cathedral of St George – Anglican

Monday 22nd Cathedral of St James – Armenian

Tuesday 23rd Church of the Redeemer – Lutheran

Wednesday 24th Church of St Saviour – Latin Catholic

Thursday 25th The Cenacle- Upper Room

Friday 26th The Cathedral of St Mark, the Syrian Orthodox Church

Saturday 27th The Cathedral of the Ethiopian Coptic Church

Sunday 28th The Cathedral of the Greek Catholic Church

Some impressions that stayed with me through the week :

the way that we were always addressed as “sisters and brothers in Christ” – no matter where we were, and who was doing the addressing. Perhaps there is nothing remarkable in that in the year 2001 – but going back to the time I grew up in Ireland, the thought that I would be regarded by Catholics as a brother in Christ would have been virtually unthinkable. The Archbishop of Dublin was writing in his Lenten Pastoral Letter, in 1958, forbidding Catholics to go to study in Trinity College without express permission from their Bishops. A sort of Anathema. Yet, within part of a lifetime, we have moved to being exhorted by the Papal Nuncio in Jerusalem to get our act together and get on with Unity.

The absence of the Greek Orthodox Church – in any sort of official capacity. This may be due to the fact that we are in a period of mourning for the death of the Greek Orthodox Patriarch here in Jerusalem, or that we are in a time of transition and no one has been able to come and represent the Greek Orthodox Church, or . . .

The absence
of members of the evangelical wing of the Christian community. This is a strong and active part of the church, working among both Israelis and Palestinians, having strong contacts with the Messianic Jewish believers – and yet they have been absent from the services of this week.

The friendliness of the people who have been there. I think that the majority have come from Christian communities with their roots in Europe.

Sunday. A full church here is about 200 – 250 people. St George’s was full. The sermon was preached by the Papal Nuncio – via a tape recording as he had had to go to Rome urgently. He spoke of the necessity for the Church to display that unity which it already has in Christ; for the need to offer help where it is needed; for the need of the Church world-wide to support the Christian community in the Holy Land. There was nothing that was revolutionary, but just the context in which it was said was what helped to make it special.

Monday. There are no seats in the Armenian church, just a few folding stools. Joan brought her own stool with her, and we found one for Alice Abusharr who was with us. Then later one for me! As someone said to me, it was standing room only. Church was full. There is no electric light, so we depended on the light of some oil lamps - –he church is festooned with these lamps, hanging in garlands from the ceiling. Not all of them were lit for this service. The worshippers were given candles to hold, so it was a real candle-light service. There was the usual chanting from the Seminarians, which ended with two Christmas Carols in English – the Armenians are the last ones to celebrate Christmas! Hark the herald angels sing and Silent night. The sermon included a historical tour of the origins of the Armenian Church – 301 being the date when the Armenian King become Christian. They are thus celebrating their 1700 anniversary this year. It was very moving to hear their history, and in particular the events of this century, including the time of the Armenian Genocide by the Turks in 1915, to the present day. The light in the church was fantastic. We started with what little daylight there was coming in through the windows at the top of the church, and gradually as it got darker and darker, we were dependent on the candles. The Armenian Clergy – and indeed most of the clergy – are all in black, and by the end of the service, all that you could see were the faces of the priests. Their gowns merged completely into the dark background. The Blessing was given at the end by several church leaders, in 5 different languages! This was repeated most evenings during the week – with the notable exception of the Latin Catholic Church.

Tuesday. Lutheran Church of the Redeemer. It is home for people who worship in Arabic, English, German, and Swedish. 10 clergy up front, mostly robed in white. One had a Ghanaian stole on – but I did not get a chance to talk with him. Sang some Taize chants, a couple of “ordinary” hymns, and a sermon. Interesting that it was a woman who was preaching – on an e-mail in from one of the Catholic clergy, he has sent us a copy of the sermon, as he says it is the first time that he has been in a service with a woman preaching. History was made. She spoke of Christians as being “little Christs”, and, among other things, said it is our responsibility to allow his word to be heard today. She is American, and made reference to the fact that the portrayal of the situation in Israel/Palestine in the American press is so one-sided, even among the Christian press. There is need for the other side of the message to be heard. Prayers were in 5 languages! A subdued Babel of sound, as we recited the Apostles’ Creed and the Lord’s Prayer in our own languages.

Wednesday. The Latin Catholic Church of St Saviour. (Known to us as Roman Catholic) Of all the services and the church buildings during the week, this was the one that “spoke” least to me. The building could have come out of any European city – red and green marble walls and mock pillars, gilded ceiling etc. The service was partly in Arabic, partly in Italian, and was taken entirely by the clergy and community of the Catholic Church. The Order of Service didn’t even have anything that I could read to let me know what was happening. At the end, we were blessed out by the Catholic priest, without any acknowledgment that there were other church leaders in the building. Disappointing.

Thursday. Joan and I were not able to be there. We had a prior appointment with the Choir Leader who was holding the first practice of a potential choir. She had gone round the city putting up notices about a choir starting, and inviting people to come along. 3 from St Andrew’s, 1 Lutheran, 1 West Indian from London, 1 Indian from Kerala, 1 French woman (who had not sung for 25 years), 1 English woman, - some could read music, some not. We made quite a joyful sound – at least we enjoyed it! Next installment next week.

Friday. Syrian Orthodox Church. I was up front, in uniform, as I had to lead a prayer. Got to my bit about an hour into the service, as people were wondering when we would be finished! It was a small church building, used only on Feast Days – obviously not able to be maintained as well as, for instance, the Catholic Church. No seats, so the congregation had to stand – I got a seat! Music was supplied by the Syrian Choir and the Coptic Church. It was a learning experience to listen to them – so completely different from our music, that it makes one wonder what these people make of “our” music at ecumenical events. Again, the service largely in non-English – mixture of languages, including Syriac, Coptic, Armenian and English. Towards the end, several of the Church leaders were invited to give their thoughts about the new Millennium – which some did at length!

Saturday. Ethiopian Church. A circular church, with a multitude of Icons all around it, painted on the walls and on the dome of the ceiling. In the centre is a closed Sanctuary area, into which the priests disappear from time to time, and from which they bring out the Gospel, enclosed in a gold cover. It is very much a priestly service, with rituals that are strange to a Presbyterian like myself. Again, the church leaders are all present, and they share in readings, in prayers, and in the Blessing.Sunday. The Greek Catholic Church. This is quite a large building close to the Jaffa Gate. I suppose that from a visual point of view, the most striking things were the Screen separating the sanctuary from the rest of the church, and the fact that there was not a single square inch of wall that I could see that had not been painted with icons, and pictures of events from the Gospels. The art style was very formal and static, and using bright, and even gaudy, colours. The service was a sort of  Responsive dialogue between the priests and deacons on the one hand, and the choir on the other. At one point, the gold-encase copy of the Gospel was paraded through the congregation, preceded by incense. For someone as informal as myself, it was a valuable insight into how others venerate a written Book, containing as it does the Word of God.

Again, at the conclusion of the service, the Greek Catholic bishop, the Greek Orthodox Archimandrake, the Armenian Bishop, the Catholic Bishop, the Anglican Dean, the Syrian Orthodox priest, the Ethiopian Patriarch – all were there to share in the Blessing.

A refrain of the week was that we can be united without having to be one organisation – I have some doubts about that. But I understand more now the complexities of trying to combine such vastly different traditions as those to which I am accustomed, and those which I encountered for the first time this week, - and I have a preference for our singing!


The weather has been clear, crisp and wintry. The sky has been bright, and today, one could see quite clearly down to the Jordan Valley, and beyond into Jordan itself. There has been a clarity in the air that I had not seen before. Yesterday we took advantage of it, and went out to the outskirts of the city to visit the Kennedy Memorial. Erected within 3 years of the death of President Kennedy, it is quite an impressive modernistic monument sitting on a hill top. Looking round the hills, there are the large new areas of Jewish housing, there are smaller Palestinian villages, but I think the most overwhelming visual impact is that of the rock structures. The strata of rock are clearly visible, now running horizontally, now twisted and heaving like waves in the sea. One can only guess at the forces that were present in the shaping of the rocks and the hills, and marvel at the change that there has been from something sufficiently fluid to be moulded into exotic shapes, to something that is adamantine and seemingly unchangeable. Maybe there is something there to help us realise that even seemingly entrenched positions of today’s politics may be susceptible to change.

World Holocaust Day has been celebrated. As you can imagine, much has been made of it here, with accounts of ceremonies in many different countries being recorded in the papers. Yet there is this strange unease about what is happening now. In Ha’aretz paper for Sunday, on page 3 there is a report about the service in London attended by the Prince of Wales and the Prime Minister. On the reverse, on page 4, there is a long article about the ghetto-isation of the Palestinian villages on the West Bank. How ironic. On Israeli TV news tonight, pictures of a field hospital with full medical staff being sent off to India to help with the aftermath of the terrible earthquake in Gujarat, while there are stories of soldiers not letting people through check-points to get to hospital. It is difficult to hold the pictures all together, and to make sense of it all.

Bye for this week. God bless.

Love from Joan and Clarence.

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Last revised: 07 April 2007.

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